@lspann3525 The new rack came with new PS Orings, it didn't come with tie rod jam nuts I had to reuse them from the old inner tie rod. Just undo it after you get it out and write down how many turns it takes to get the tie rods off and then swap the old jam nuts over
I say unless you really want the features of the auto lvl system, it's a fragile system that is ageing and it's probably more headache than its worth. I recommend replacing the springs and shocks parts that accomplish your goal and NOT installing a 4 inch lift on a auto level system
When I did my AFM delete my cam bearings didn’t look great! But I didn’t have oil pressure issues so I slapped a new cam in and sent it. That was 3 years ago and still runs like a top.
In these situations you can open it up and see what’s going on and then make a plan based on your findings...
I hardly remember a thread on here I think a guy ran the wrong VLOM and it jacked his motor up. I want to say he had a motor like yours with AFM off and he swapped just the VLOM and left the AFM lifters in and the new VLOM caused those lifters to keep collapsing. Hopefully someone else remembers...
I grease them after torqing them down so that I can make sure that I'm not overfilling them but these failed early for some reason. The new one and the other side have been fine
@bobjohnson5000 If you haven't looked into it yet, the negative battery cable is known to go bad on the 2007-2015 model tahoes. You can test this by grabbing the negative battery cable and pushing it back towards the firewall and then try starting the tahoe again.
Here is a video of when I was...
@Keiterburb Bank 1 is running slightly rich. This could be from a bad MAF or O2 sensor, or maybe the intake lobe on the cam is damaged not allowing the valve to open enough.
Might be worth cleaning your MAF and swapping your bank 1 and bank 2 upstream O2 sensors to see if the problem persists...
@Keiterburb My interpretation of those photos is that bank 2 is performing better, the consistent bumps is good, bank 1 readings are not consistent.
For fun I consulted ChatGPT and it agreed:
@Eraschaub Are we talking about a used engine that’s already pulled?
Depending on how much time you have with it taking the valve covers off and turning the motor by hand will and watching the rockers will tell you a little bit about the motor if it’s clean inside and the rockers are all...
@Keiterburb Texas Speed and Performance has good kits but I say take it slow and find the problem before firing off a solution.
If you’re handy enough to open it up and find the smoking gun yourself that would help define which path you should take. When my lifter failed I didn’t find the...
Some good advice in here. I think I comment on your Facebook post but I’m curious on the cam lobes for that cylinder. The LS lifters can fail in different ways even when not AFM lifters. The tray that holds them in position is plastic and the lifters can spin in the tray and damage the cam lobe...
Here is a link to a front strut: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4937763&cc=1441045&pt=15174&jsn=772
Here is a link to a z71 rear shock: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1253158&cc=1441045&pt=7556&jsn=795
@Sir_Hiro I would describe it more as a performance suspension instead of for comfort. I like it but if you're looking to float on clouds this isn't it
@Sir_Hiro Yes, I guess I should say the bilsteins are at stock setting and not actually set to the lower perch, they are set for no lift basically. All the lift comes from the spring.
The front end had continued to develop more clunks and pops so I bit the bullet and redid the steering including the rack, inner and outter tie rods, and the CV joint that connects the steering shaft to the steering rack. I went with a reman BBC from Rock Auto on recommendation and while the new...
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