Replaced the resistor and blower, the problem was both. When I replaced the resistor it was definitely more apt to turn on high, but still didn't love lower settings. Then I replaced the blower (I had ordered both just in case) and its good as new. Just happy it wasn't the control...
Yes, please tell me the whole Dash doesn't have to come off to replace it... Should I do the panel first?
When the blower kicks on its strong, no squeaks, issues, I would think a failing blower motor wouldn't go full speed?
I'm going to do that next, I just tried the reset (pull fuses with ignition off for 10 seconds, reinstall, start engine and don't touch anything for 40 seconds). The blowers kicked on for a second, then off/very low, then sounds like they were trying to turn on and failing for ~20 of those 40...
Its intermittent, maybe 1 out of ever 10 times I drive it. When it does happen a bump within the first 10-15 min of driving usually wakes it up.
Only 1 time so far have I been able to get it to wake up.
I don't have a tech2 unfortunately
Dorman's is claiming it doesn't? Any truth to that? part is 599-142
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Is there any chance the HVAC control panel is ok and its the blowers that aren't waking up?
I'm trying to change my differential fluid, was going to use Synthetic 75W-90 for both (Yes I know the front technically calls for dino 80W-90), but the question of diff cover gaskets has left me scratching my head. How would a 2011 Tahoe LT 4WD have multiple choices as per RockAuto? I get that...
I cannot for the life of me find an easy path for this. Trying to wire an airhorn and some LEDs behind the grill, but getting a trigger/switch wire(s) into the cab is proving difficult. I tried multiple times to use the grommet on the firewall near the brake booster, but I cannot find on the...
This absolutely drives me crazy that its totally designed to be not financially returnable and that installation instructions are not vetted before being put up for sale. Good luck, I had a similar experience with a radio I ended up returning for one I bought from crutchfield (which I also don't...
I assume you meant a non-flooded 94R? Even if I laid this one I bought on its side (I wouldn't do that with a flooded battery) you'd have to change around the battery tie down(s) (not use the factory one) but you'd still have the same issue with length where it sits on top of the right side (aka...
Battery died (had a group 48 in there) and wouldn't reliably hold a charge. I searched around and found that 94R "should" be the OEM size so I replaced the dead 48 with a 94R from Napa. While I was able to get it in there by moving the coolant overflow tank, it is TIGHT. It also doesn't sit...
In my 2011 Tahoe (GMT900) I read that OEM was 94R but had an group 48 in it. I replaced with a 94R (had to get the coolant overflow tank out of the way) but unfortunately it still "spills" off of the tray slightly. It is TIGHT in there. The group 48's slightly smaller dimensions definitely were...
Any recommendations? Stock height, 99% street driving. I'm a big fan of the bilsteins I put in the rear, but unfortunately I can't find equivalents for the front. Would be doing a spring/strut assembly for ease of install.
AC Delco gold? KYB? Monroe?
Why are you running premium? Increased compression? If so it's cheaper at that spread to buy octane boost additive in bulk online and add it to 87.
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Put some new tires on today, 285/70r17 Cooper Discoverer AT3s. No rubbing even at full lock.
I have 17" wheels and hate my existing 265/70R17 tires so I want to swap before winter. I was thinking 275/70R17s but the front fenderwell clearance already looks close... Thoughts? (2011 LT Tahoe)
I tapped into Red (switched) radio power to feed the trigger for pin 86 on the relay (switch triggered). Then I used the existing power wire for the cig lighter to pin 30 (so its still on the same circuit/fuse), then pin 87 goes to the actual + at the cig socket (now a USB-C port), then ground...
I added said relay in my previous drawing, using the radio switched power as the trigger. Using a multimeter there is almost no additional load on the radio wiring and it works perfect. The relay uses the existing Cig lighter circuit (and fuse) for its constant power so the car side is unchanged...
Wirewheeled and repainted these gnarly wheels (clearcoat had some off in chunks and oxidation was well underway) using Rustoleum Hammered Silver. Then I replaced 2 bad DRL bulbs with amber LEDs, the Fog bulbs with Amber projector bulbs and added the "Boost all lights" wiring mod. Very satisfied...
Currently doing it again. The rear controls seem to work fine. I can get a small amount of air to come out if I have the rear on and recirculating disabled. It's like the blower isn't getting the message to spin up. Any ideas? Should I just take the dash apart?
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