Thank you for considering me for a rebuild and good questions!
1. I do accept work and am located in Las Vegas, Nevada
2. I buy all the parts; most shops including me don’t accept customer parts due to warranty liability reasons
3. Transmission and torque converter must be out of the vehicle...
Reply with your questions here and I’ll respond when I can.
I’ve turned off PMs as too many were trying to ask me questions there which is completely redundant to asking them in the forum.
If you have manual first and reverse but no forward movement when the shifter is in drive (D4) or drive three (D3), your input sprag has failed. Trans needs to come out for overhaul and torque converter replaced.
You will need the pump body/bell housing machined first (or purchase a new body/bell from General Motors). Once you have the reconditioned or new body/bell, measure the depth of the rotor pocket with a depth micrometer and record the reading (measure in a few different places to confirm the...
Have you resolved the problem as of yet? If not, valve body: specifically 2-6 regulator valve, compensator feed valve or TCC regulator valve. Pump's TCC limit valve may also be excessively worn along with the main pressure regulator valve (very common in 6Ls)
The ATF formulation is based on the design/chemical engineering of the friction material used in the lined clutch plates inside a given automatic transmission. So if a particular transmission calls for a specific type of fluid, that is the fluid you must use.
This is little different than...
This sounds like a hard part failure inside the transmission, perhaps gear train and/or sun shell. But that's based solely on your description above. I'd drop the pan and see what's at the bottom. If there's a whole bunch of kibbles and bits, burnt clutch material and the like, put the pan back...
Have you put it on a scanner and taken it for a drive to replicate the condition and see what the transmission is doing and values are for the various transmission-related PIDs? A priori, I'd look at pressure switch data as well as line pressure to see if there is either an anomalous line...
No REMANS! None of them are any good and you'll be likely bringing it back for warranty (possibly after it strands you). Would suck if you paid more money for less of a product.
Get your existing transmission rebuilt with a billet torque converter - check with the shop re the parts and...
Sounds like torque converter failure. Sudden onset of hard shifts as well as shuddering are tell tale signs. Put a bidirectional scan tool on it and take for a short drive (if you dont have such a scan tool, buy one - no DIYer should be without one). Bring up live trans and TC data. Look at duty...
I may know of a shop in that general area - will check and get back to you.
You can also purchase a programming subscription for your vehicle via AC Delco's Technical Delivery Service.
Where are you located?
If the tcc solenoid (p0741) is at issue, the TEHCM is bad. Note that that is relatively rare. More often than not, the valve body or torque converter itself is the problem.
Unfortunately, there arent many builders who do a thorough job; those who do arent cheap. I bench...
Correct - plan on having your transmission completely rebuilt; acquire an upgraded torque converter from a reputable TC company. The transmission builder should be able to source everything you need, including the torque converter and TEHCM (see below).
Replace your TEHCM with a new OEM TEHCM...
Unfortunately, I am not super-versed on the 10 speeds as of yet - that said call your local GM dealer and ask for 'Parts'. Provide the last 8 digits of your VIN and they will tell you what transmissions will interchange. Generally, if the unit you want to swap in came from behind the same or...
Why not rebuild your unit or have it rebuilt by a competent shop?
I never recommend buying used transmissions (or reman units, for that matter), especially if your engine has been upgraded to make more power...Only potential exception would be if you plan on dumping the vehicle immediately...
Rule out the Transfer case first (if applicable) then check fluid level...If it's way above full and doesn't drop when you fire up the engine, the pump has failed. If it does drop or level is normal (ie between the full cold and full hot marks on the dip stick, drop the pan to see if there is...
Check fluid level if you havent done so already. If its way over full and level doesnt drop when you fire up the engine, the pump is shot and trans needs to come out.
Unfortunately, there are major supply chain bottlenecks associated with the 10 speeds, both GM and Ford. Valve bodies, pumps, entire transmissions, etc...I don't know of any reputable reman company for any transmission type, let alone the 10-speeds unfortunately.
What part of the country are...
If the truck is showing signs of aggressive rust build-up, it will cost a fortune to fix so I agree - time to move on from it...If it was healthy in all respects apart from the transmission and you liked the truck then I'd probably have it overhauled since you know the transmission will be good...
Drop the pan, look for burnt clutch material at the bottom and see if any of three the reverse hold-down plate bolts (8mm) are loose...It's highly unlikely unless the unit was recently worked on and spacer plate removed for some reason (i.e. to install a shift kit or repair/replace the plate)...
Bumping up the thread with a tear down and inspection of a crazy and piss-poor rebuild job done by some other shop here in town only six months ago from now...Was a total disaster, lol!
It’s a direct swap, no programming or adaptive resets required. You don’t need to program any 4L60E transmission to any vehicle that already came with one. You just have to get the vintages and their respective TC/input shaft/flex plate configurations correct as well as the 3C (command...
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