Sorry, just seeing this.
The rear control being unplugged is why you have no rear speakers functioning.
The tweeters in the A-pillars are wired in parallel to the front door speakers, same goes for rear door and D-pillar speakers.
My guess is your driver's door speaker took a crap and needs...
It means you have the "Smart" amp, you can tell because it will have a speaker in the center of the dash. The "Dumb" amp system doesn't have the center speaker.
I believe on the smart amp it is turned on using data over the canbus system. But I may be wrong as I don't have that system.
I would check continuity of the short harness that goes between the engine harness and the coils, the one that is attached to the coil bracket. They have been known to have issues.
If I am reading the wiring schematics correctly it looks like connector C1 is a Black connector on the back of original radio and that would be Pin 6 which should be a White wire which is "Remote Enable Signal" to amplifier.
This is assuming you don't have RPO Y91 on the RPO sticker in your glove.
I do not have any bags in the front currently, but the ones I posted are the ones I've been eyeing.
The only "downside" to the TBSS bags is they only have a 5/32" air hose fitting, which is better than the 1/8" that they use on regular air shocks, but if you are looking for speed like an...
I have the Trailblazer SS rear air bags in the rear of my Burb. They are good for about a 4" drop and still ride good (read not bouncy) at least from my research. I have not personally tried to drive with them lower than 4", although if you let the air out it will lay the frame on the axle tube...
Found this the other day perusing the Jungle site...
TYKOOL Auto Lithium Battery BCI GROUP 48, 12V 60AH Automotive Battery,144RC,1500CCA, High-Performance Car Battery,36 Months Warranty https://a.co/d/e2TNLoU
Those are indeed the same pics as on the site. I forgot to get pics because as mentioned it was a struggle to get it on without removing the rack.
I lubed it and used a ratchet strap to help coerce it back onto the rack. Definitely a tight fit, but that is what you want, right?
To get it...
I replaced mine with a poly bushing. It was a fight getting the poly bushing back onto the rack, hopefully the rubber is a little more forgiving.
You just unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the bracket and bushing in place and slide it towards wheel. You will have to slide the accordian boot over but...
Sounds like your axle needs to rotate (change Pinion angle) in order to line up properly.
Mine are bolted flat to the axle and everything lines up with stock upper and lower trailing arms.
I think that statement applies to most everyone on this forum.
While there are probably a few "certified" mechanics on this forum, I would say the majority of us are just certifiable... lol
If you are like me and like to do your own stunts, then I would say it is an invaluable tool to have.
This is the one I bought recently after my Candi module stopped being recognized by my Tech 2.
VDIAGTOOL Bidirectional Scan Tool VD70: 2024 Newest Car Scanner Diagnostic Tool with ECU Coding, 36+ Resets, OE Full System Scan, CAN FD & DoIP, Crank Sensor Relearn, 3 Years Updates...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.