Had a heater core quick connect blow yesterday on my lunch break. Luckily had a hose clamp. ripped the quick connect off and dig out its remains from the hose. Back on the road in 10 minutes... today notice my oil pressure is pegged. Hmm well that’s weird got back to the house and turn the...
@yellowkid You will need to perform an ABS bleed via scan tool. Does not have to be a dealer, any higher end scan tool has the capabilities.
@Silent D depending on how much fluid was lost when the work was done will determine how far you need to take it. If you’ve had the ABS system bled and...
Fuel trims and engine speed will be a dead give away for a vacuum leak. Especially going from idle to accelerate to higher steady speed and back to idle. Hopefully that’s all that’s needed was that 90.
Just get yourself a combustion leak tester and test for any combustion gases in the coolant resi. If the head gasket is blown that will rat out the culprit.
And have you checked the casting numbers on your heads yet?
I redid my interior with black leather but the tan seats belts match the look and I kinda like the contrast as of right now.
I need to take new pictures that I promised, I’ve been slacking on that.
The sun visors are reupholstered to match the headliner now too. And in case you’re wondering...
And are you sure you don’t have a sub? My 04 has a sub tucked away at the very front of the center console NOT inside the cargo area panel. You have bose speakers and amp I’m willing to bet you have a sub.
I believe that’s a seat occupancy/weight sensor using pascals law combined with a sensor to detect the weight of the person in the seat. Child or adult or kool-aid guy, they all displace a certain amount of fluid.
Typical low speed squeak is caused by ball joints. Ford pick ups are NOTORIOUS for this. You say the upper control arms are good but those are what are adjusted for caster&camber on our vehicles. The caster won’t cause tire wear BUT will most definitely effect left/right pull especially if those...
What all work has been don’t to the front end, suspension wise? Upper/lower Control arms? You say you torqued the gear box? You mean to the frame or the hex key “adjustment” bolt.
Edit: if you’ve mentioned any of this previously I apologize.
So you’re talking about calipers AND wheel cylinders. So I’m assuming you have disc brake up front and drums in the rear? If so, and you’re worried about breaker a bleeder off the wheel cylinders in the back. If they sat that long with out use they more than likely need to be replaced...
Which ever you use, I prefer a metric mid size socket to break them free, don’t just go turning the bleeder completely left. Once it’s pops free turn back right a hair then continue left. Work it back and forth in a two step forward one step back ratio. 1/4 to left 1/8 back right for example. I...
That’s one of the pros of having a body lift. Say like a 3in body lift... more room to access tighter areas like the rear of the engine and rear bolts to exhaust manifolds etc. lol
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