You should be getting around 7C if you stick a thermometer in the vent slot, so something is wrong, which means it may have a leak in the system, it should never need to be refilled basically unless it is needed when working on something
when buying the screen cheap or not, just be sure it is new and not open box or refurbished. I found there were several that were listed for less than average price and that's kind of a dead giveaway. Glad it worked out, there is no other reasonable price option and the dealer won't do it. If...
take it back to the shop that did the work and request they adjust the shift cable. just show the tech or whoever is at the counter what is going on. they should have you in & out in no time.
for me it's easier to use other peoples money for a small fee, rather than deplete my resources and have to recoup it all.
if you buy at 5 years old generally speaking you are not getting hit with a additional 50% devaluation on top of interest fee's. higher insurance and higher registration.
I...
CIA blackbox :secret:
seriously though, not 100% sure on that year but typically it is the airbag module (which is technically the "blackbox"), or some other module to that effect.
it should have a part number on it. Not sure if the 95 had a yaw sensor or not. that would be a possible module...
there end game is for private vehicle ownership to no longer be a thing, they want the money coming in 24/7 not just vehicle sales, they want subscription money too
what they really want is shared public transportation and everyone pays....
it's kind of plastered around there various websites if...
i'm sure the T2's are different than the K2's as they have more nannies which equates into more sensors and less re-usable parts & modules.
they don't want you to be able to fix it yourself anymore and the newer vehicles are going to be really screwed when gm stops making new parts in the not to...
the fans are 100% plug-n-play but I don't know how much help they will be, I would have to assume the intercooler is what drives the temp up.
you might do better with a front mounted forced air fan, that was my game plan if needed.
I was under it again because I have been getting a clanking noise anytime I went over a bump or small pothole, thought it was my ghetto transmission cooler mount under the bumper but secured that up pretty good the other day and the clank was still there. kind of sounded like a loose brake...
JUNK YARD/ebay/lkq but it will need to be learned to the vin with a higher end scanner or techline connect.
if you have a junkyard that lets you pull the parts yourself that will be the cheapest, just has to be a matching part number
they range from $100-200 used on ebay...
It really depends on the "type" of code, some systems are self-checking, such as srs and abs for instance. If there is no active problem there is no code and there is no historical code saved. many other codes will be saved in history even if the battery is disconnected. you just have to look...
could have just needed more drive cycles, or maybe it was something you did. Hard to say for sure. As long as it stays gone.....
that drive cycle I noted is not precise, it's a partial note of the "official" one.
but the general rule of thumb is drive it 50 miles at 55mph, that's what the techs...
there is a qr code, they do not put the list in the glove box anymore in most cases.
and who ever told you that is a standard shock was wrong, call back and ask to speak to the parts department
water over the sensor is the defacto test, along with disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes to reset everything
and a visual inspection to see if there is anything blocking or obscuring the sensor, like if the plastic cover is misaligned, etc.
maybe check the fuse.
nothing else anyone...
run some water over the sensor, see if the wipers come on, pretty simple test.
the sensor is right there by the rear view mirror, hit the front window with a garden hose
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