could be several things...first thing is to rule out bad battery cables. get battery charged and tested at auto parts store (free) if bad get new batt. then, as a test connect one end of a black jumper cable to batt negative and other end of black jumper cable to block somewhere and try...
do a diagnostic gauge test or have shop do for you like one below. if it's good, good...if not see if shop will re-address issue. if they won't, initiate dispute process with credit card issuer...get issuer to send you an email confirming it's in process....then take copy to shop, they will get...
as a test connect one end of a black jumper cable to batt negative and other end of black jumper cable to block somewhere and try cranking...if it starts you have a bad negative battery cable..common on these models. can do the same thing from batt pos to starter pos post and try cranking..if it...
yeah, the spray test is just to show if spark is jumping out...wont show problem with wires to coil connector..except maybe to cause a misfire...need to check coil signal wires in harnes and i believe each bank has common ground...you can try splicing into one ground wire with a piece of wire...
hmmm...at this point i would check the integrity of cyl 6 coil connector plug and the 4 wires i believe it has feeding into it. you may have to take some tape off and see it there is a chafe...perhaps seal up where wires enter connector with some sealant..from your symptoms....fine when...
as a test connect one end of a black jumper cable to batt negative and other end of black jumper cable to block somewhere and try cranking...if it starts you have a bad negative battery cable..common on these models. can do the same thing from batt pos to starter pos and try cranking..if it...
Ahh, i see. Well, the loose cables are a common fail so hopefully it will help others that end up on this post tracking that problem. Good luck on your quest. I had it and my co-worker had it and spacers tightened things right up.
My money is on loose cables..there is a fix in forum post link below. it utilizes a spacer to allow more travel of rod/cable through adjuster bracket under bottom of truck. a stack of nuts with an inner diameter large enough to slide up and down threaded rod will also work in lieu of spacer...
yep, from all the research and reading i've done...the best bang for buck on these is a tune...from factory the box, exhaust, heads, are all really quite optimized already for average guy like me who stays in low rpms most of time
swap the 6 coil and wire with cyl 4. if problem moves you have a coil or wire issue. if so, switch wire back to 6..if it returns back to 6 its the wire. if it stays on 4 its the coil.
yes, check for exhaust manifold tick if its developed a loose spot...has fooled many folks
if not,
also, my 2002 liked an
ac delco filter better than wix and mobil for start up sounds never thought it would make a difference but it did...
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