I don’t know for certain, but I imagine it could quiet it down. I’ll be switching to 0-20 right before my “test” although I shudder to pour that water in my engine and actually drive it.
Ah. So bearings too tight? Just don’t want to see your engine go down again when you might be able to avoid it by fixing now while engine open. Looks like you have really good mechanics though. Thanks for sharing and keep the pictures coming! Really helpful.
Vlad - The defect is in the crank and wrist pins. If you keep the stock parts for these you will have issues again as your new engine was built before the cutoff date.
I think the defect is in the metallurgy of the crank and rods though. I believe the metal is defective, not strong enough to hold together. I don’t think the bearings are the failure issue although obviously your new engine had bad stock bearings. I’m just hoping the crank and rods don’t have...
Oh man. So are your repair guys swapping the crank and rods? I would think you run the risk of the same thing with the build date being before the day 183 cutoff.
It truly isn’t safe. If you are in the far left passing lane on a 3 or 4 lane highway and the engine goes, it would be so dangerous to have to get to the right side shoulder. God forbid you get stuck on the left side by a barrier. I’d be scared to death the broken down car would be smashed into...
It is my understanding that GM will not take a trade in because then they can’t sell them due to the stop sale. So we’re stuck even if we want to get rid of the car. A lot of people have a very expensive hunk of metal with payments on that hunk of metal they shouldn’t drive due to safety.
Maybe. I’m not sure if it is day 007, so 7, or 0072, so day 72. Either way, seeing Vlad’s stock engine replacement condition, not really happy it sat so long.
It is hard to take a picture. I couldn’t do it, but with a flashlight I could read it. Mine was K1220072jw4x3162. Car wasn’t sold until late 2022. Engine was built January 7th 2022.
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