I appreciate everyone's help and assistance. I got the 2 quotes back, with a ridiculous timeline and no promise that it would be fixed from each place I asked.
I decided to cut my losses and traded it in for a 2026 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali Ultimate. My first diesel and first pickup. Stoked...
Another update: wasn't able to get the valve covers off; I know that's the most definitive test, but I did gather more info:
Ok, so I've confirmed. The screeching had nothing to do with the issue at hand. It is something accessory related. The screeching disappears when running the engine...
Yep that was one of the videos I watched. Checked the coils, no problems.
ATF? I read about that before, but I'm leery of doing that, I just changed the oil yesterday.
The noise doesn't get louder as I rev it, it just speeds up with the engine speed.
I ran all the diagnostics and I have some info to report.
1. I checked codes with ACC on and ENGINE OFF. There were no codes.
2. I checked for loose spark plug cables. Nothing was loose; everything was connected perfectly.
3. I proceeded to check for an exhaust leak. There are no obvious signs...
I thought about doing that, but I just can't bring myself to. If I was going to trade, I would NEVER go back into the same platform. There are just too many things I had to do to mine to bring it where it was.
IF my truck were to actually be dead or un-salvageable, I am going to go with a GMC...
Yes, my truck runs. I haven't tried to actually drive it, especially now. No check engine light. I haven't yet went to check for codes, although I will do that tomorrow. Loud ticking (spanking sound), yes. Isolated to right side (passenger) bank. Sounds exactly like a bad lifter....but now...
Update: did an oil change, did NOT turn on the truck.
I made sure to clean my container so that there was no residue to contaminate the oil. The oil that came out of the truck has NO metal. No chunks, no metallic sheen, NOTHING.
I cut open the filter. There were NO metallic sheen, no metal...
Right, I thought that's what you meant.
Swapping in an actual L8T is going to cost almost the equivalent of just going the DOD/AFM delete and tune....at least in my area. I live in the worst area for this to happen: the DMV.
But just to be clear: the cam the first shop recommended is for the L8T.
Well that's the cam that was suggested by the first shop I called. Originally I asked for BTR/TSP Stage 1, but he said that I would need new headers to the tune of around $3k. The second shop I called said that was a lot of BS and that you can have the L8T, BTR, or TSP Stage 1 cam if you pair it...
Yeah, this is what I want to do. I'm thinking that fixing it is the cheapest route. I'm trying and trying to look around and not having much luck finding people/shops that will do this for a low price. I do think $12k is freaking insane. It's still better than all the other options. Like picking...
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