black95
Full Access Member
what are the steps of removing the tranny from my hoe, does the 4x4 transfer case have to be removed, any hints or tricks or advice is greatly appreciated
tranny removal
- Thread starter black95
- Start date
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I would leave the transfer case, unless you need to work on it. The cross member can be unbolted and slid back. The transfer case can be left sitting on that cross member.
The bolts holding the cross member to the frame are longer than they need be and are probably corroded. They might give you the biggest fight. The good news is, they are accessible with the impact wrench.
I picked up some plugs to cap off the ATF cooling lines to the radiator. Otherwise they keep dribbling on you.
Other than that is just busy work, unhooking the drive shafts, 4 wheel drive shifter , shift cable and wiring. You might also have those braces that go from the motor mounts to the bell housing. The speed sensor is on top of the back of the trans, so be sure that wire is unplugged.
Use a transmission jack to remove and be sure to have the trans tilted back slightly when letting it down, so the TC does not slip out.
When you rent a tranny jack, look for one that has the wide stance in the front that allows the trans to come down in between the front legs. Otherwise you may find you didn’t jack the Hoe high enough to get it out from under the truck. Or you could do some measuring and jack accordingly. Good luck....
The bolts holding the cross member to the frame are longer than they need be and are probably corroded. They might give you the biggest fight. The good news is, they are accessible with the impact wrench.
I picked up some plugs to cap off the ATF cooling lines to the radiator. Otherwise they keep dribbling on you.
Other than that is just busy work, unhooking the drive shafts, 4 wheel drive shifter , shift cable and wiring. You might also have those braces that go from the motor mounts to the bell housing. The speed sensor is on top of the back of the trans, so be sure that wire is unplugged.
Use a transmission jack to remove and be sure to have the trans tilted back slightly when letting it down, so the TC does not slip out.
When you rent a tranny jack, look for one that has the wide stance in the front that allows the trans to come down in between the front legs. Otherwise you may find you didn’t jack the Hoe high enough to get it out from under the truck. Or you could do some measuring and jack accordingly. Good luck....
OP
OP
black95
Full Access Member
thank you this project will start tomorrow
foreverfalcon40
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2009
- Posts
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You guys dont have ALLDATA @ boces or a chilton manuals?
If needed I can print a directions for ya.
Did you get that number for me?
If needed I can print a directions for ya.
Did you get that number for me?
OP
OP
black95
Full Access Member
thank you anyway ,i got all data from the shop my friend works at, as for the # he absolutely will not sell he is a real dick,i sent u a pm with a video of ur truck it is sick
ravingmadman
Chief Knuckle Buster
I would leave the transfer case, unless you need to work on it. The cross member can be unbolted and slid back. The transfer case can be left sitting on that cross member.
The bolts holding the cross member to the frame are longer than they need be and are probably corroded. They might give you the biggest fight. The good news is, they are accessible with the impact wrench.
I picked up some plugs to cap off the ATF cooling lines to the radiator. Otherwise they keep dribbling on you.
Other than that is just busy work, unhooking the drive shafts, 4 wheel drive shifter , shift cable and wiring. You might also have those braces that go from the motor mounts to the bell housing. The speed sensor is on top of the back of the trans, so be sure that wire is unplugged.
Use a transmission jack to remove and be sure to have the trans tilted back slightly when letting it down, so the TC does not slip out.
When you rent a tranny jack, look for one that has the wide stance in the front that allows the trans to come down in between the front legs. Otherwise you may find you didn’t jack the Hoe high enough to get it out from under the truck. Or you could do some measuring and jack accordingly. Good luck....
Outstanding. Can you copy this over to the tech section, as a How-To? You rock.
mtyler7807
TYF Newbie
Good Directions, I followed them pretty good.
1. unscrew the two trans mounts from the bottom of bell housing that runs to the bottom of the front frame.
2. Take the circle piece under the bell housing out(it looks like the bottom of a soda can)
3. unscrew the 3 screws that hold the converter shield at the front of the bell housing. Unbolt the Starter why you are there and just let it hang they.
4. take a big flat head or o small crowbar and stick it in the hole where you removed the circle piece(that looks the bottom of a soda can and do a ratcheting affect on the teeth of the fly wheel until a converter bolt is exposed. Take that bolt lose and do it for all three bolts.
5. unhook the front wheel drive shaft. They are held by 4 screws. Once you do that the axle will be able to come lose with a pluck with a screw drive at the base of the u joint. Once you do that just pull the other end out of the transfer case.
6. Remove the cross member. 4 screw attach it to the frame of the truck. Two screws on each side(use a impact wrench if you have one)
7. To unbolt the sub frame from the trans mission, Leave the trans mission mount hooked to the cross member and just unbolt it from the transmission it's self.
8. Now you need a jack. The one I use was the jack that came with the truck but you can use any jack but it has to go high enough.
9. Make sure you are on a flat place. Place the jack under the trans mission pan and elevate the jack to get it off top of the cross member. Once you have done that the cross member will slide out with a little jerking around.
10. Unbolt the rear drive shaft just like the front drive shaft( 4 screws) and pluck it out with the screw driver. Pull it out of the transfer case,
11. Unbolt transfer case (6 bolts) and make sure that you unplug all cables first. Yo u might have to raise up on the transmission with the jack a little to get the transfer case to slide back off of the transmission shaft. (Put rags down transmission fluid is going to be every where.)
12. Lower the jack from under the transmission. Leave a little pressure for safety. Unhook all viewable cables and quick ties that might hold your wires in place to the transmission. Unhook the shift cable as well. Pluck the dip stick hose out of the transmission with a flat head screwdriver. Unscrew cooler lines from the passenger side of transmission.
13. There are 6-8 bolts holding the transmission to the engine. They are studs with a nut built on to it. Another nut goes on to some of them to hold wires in place.
14. You can use a transmission jack, but I use brut force. Takes two people and some blankets if you are in a garage. Tug on the transmission until it comes off.
15. You are finished. Just follow the steps in reverse order to reinstall. Hardest part would be getting the transmission back on to the fly wheel. But you can get it. Me and friend way 170lbs each and we got it in 10 minutes. took 3 hours to get it off.(we got drunk a little) and 1 hour to put it back in(sober).
MTFROMCC
14 . You remover
13. Once you have do that
1. unscrew the two trans mounts from the bottom of bell housing that runs to the bottom of the front frame.
2. Take the circle piece under the bell housing out(it looks like the bottom of a soda can)
3. unscrew the 3 screws that hold the converter shield at the front of the bell housing. Unbolt the Starter why you are there and just let it hang they.
4. take a big flat head or o small crowbar and stick it in the hole where you removed the circle piece(that looks the bottom of a soda can and do a ratcheting affect on the teeth of the fly wheel until a converter bolt is exposed. Take that bolt lose and do it for all three bolts.
5. unhook the front wheel drive shaft. They are held by 4 screws. Once you do that the axle will be able to come lose with a pluck with a screw drive at the base of the u joint. Once you do that just pull the other end out of the transfer case.
6. Remove the cross member. 4 screw attach it to the frame of the truck. Two screws on each side(use a impact wrench if you have one)
7. To unbolt the sub frame from the trans mission, Leave the trans mission mount hooked to the cross member and just unbolt it from the transmission it's self.
8. Now you need a jack. The one I use was the jack that came with the truck but you can use any jack but it has to go high enough.
9. Make sure you are on a flat place. Place the jack under the trans mission pan and elevate the jack to get it off top of the cross member. Once you have done that the cross member will slide out with a little jerking around.
10. Unbolt the rear drive shaft just like the front drive shaft( 4 screws) and pluck it out with the screw driver. Pull it out of the transfer case,
11. Unbolt transfer case (6 bolts) and make sure that you unplug all cables first. Yo u might have to raise up on the transmission with the jack a little to get the transfer case to slide back off of the transmission shaft. (Put rags down transmission fluid is going to be every where.)
12. Lower the jack from under the transmission. Leave a little pressure for safety. Unhook all viewable cables and quick ties that might hold your wires in place to the transmission. Unhook the shift cable as well. Pluck the dip stick hose out of the transmission with a flat head screwdriver. Unscrew cooler lines from the passenger side of transmission.
13. There are 6-8 bolts holding the transmission to the engine. They are studs with a nut built on to it. Another nut goes on to some of them to hold wires in place.
14. You can use a transmission jack, but I use brut force. Takes two people and some blankets if you are in a garage. Tug on the transmission until it comes off.
15. You are finished. Just follow the steps in reverse order to reinstall. Hardest part would be getting the transmission back on to the fly wheel. But you can get it. Me and friend way 170lbs each and we got it in 10 minutes. took 3 hours to get it off.(we got drunk a little) and 1 hour to put it back in(sober).
MTFROMCC
14 . You remover
13. Once you have do that
95gatl
TYF Newbie
have a 96 tahoe 4x4
Hi.
It's an old thread....but i'm going to need a tranny pretty soon. mine is slowly on it's way out. Thanks GM.
I have removed engine and tranny's before, not an expert, but not a novice. I will be having my BMW mechanic assist me with the job. I have jacks, tranny jack, air tools, etc.
So a few hours of work. I have to remember to flush out the lines and cooler.
If anyone has an updated threads or HOW TO procedures, let me know
thx.
Hi.
It's an old thread....but i'm going to need a tranny pretty soon. mine is slowly on it's way out. Thanks GM.
I have removed engine and tranny's before, not an expert, but not a novice. I will be having my BMW mechanic assist me with the job. I have jacks, tranny jack, air tools, etc.
So a few hours of work. I have to remember to flush out the lines and cooler.
If anyone has an updated threads or HOW TO procedures, let me know
thx.
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retorq
Full Access Member
Surely with all your experience and a BMW mechanic friend helping you, you don't need updated procedures. It's still nuts and bolts holding everything together, we haven't advanced much past that ... even though it's almost 2012 and we should have flying cars ...
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Some instructions do not apply.
Transmission Replacement
Transmission Replacement
- Disconnect battery ground cable.
- Remove air cleaner assembly, then disconnect TV cable, if equipped, at its upper end.
- Raise and support vehicle.
- Raise, then support transmission and transfer case, if equipped.
- Drain fluid from transmission, then disconnect shift linkage assembly.
- Disconnect propeller shaft from transmission, then remove front driveshaft from transfer case, if equipped.
- Remove catalytic converter support bracket.
- Remove transmission crossmember attaching bolts, then the crossmember.
- Lower transmission enough to reach other components. When lowering transmission to gain access to other components, do not stretch or damage any cables, wires or other components .
- Remove dipstick tube and seal. Cover transmission dipstick bore to prevent dirt from entering
- Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission.
- Disconnect vacuum modulator line from transmission, if equipped.
- Label, then disconnect all electrical connectors from transmission assembly.
- Disconnect, then cap transmission fluid cooler lines.
- Remove transfer case shifter and position aside, if equipped.
- Remove damper and support, if equipped.
- Note location of transmission support braces, then remove braces. Support braces must be installed in their original locations .
- Remove torque converter housing cover attaching bolts, then the cover.
- Using a piece of chalk or equivalent, mark flywheel and torque converter from assembly alignment.
- Support engine assembly using a suitable jack.
- Remove flywheel to torque converter attaching bolts.
- Remove transmission bellhousing to engine block attaching bolts. Note positions of any brackets or clips for assembly .
- Slowly and carefully slide transmission assembly rearward, off locating pins, then install torque converter holding fixture tool No. J-21366 or equivalent.
- Reverse procedure to install.
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