There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

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Did some work on a ladies 2005 Tahoe LS today. Here recently deceased husband was a member of the American Legion. Did the tensioners and idler and both belts. Main tensioner was growling and had an intermittent squeak. Decided to do all of it. Cleaned the MAF and the throttle body too. She had an oil leak at the oil block off plate and I had ordered in all the parts and a billet plate with the o-ring. Also did new rear hatch struts.

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At my Taco Tuesday and Thursday bar, the manager, Denise, has a 2008 4Runner SR5 that is in great shape with only 122k miles. Has had some right front clunking and grinding noises. I looked at it the other day and found a noisy hub and bearing assembly and an inner cv boot split op and slinging grease. I also found that the elevated wheel was hard to spin and the left front was easy. I suspected either the other two culprits or something with brakes. I got the parts and she dropped off this morning at 10 am. My shop owner friend had told me that if it has brakes hanging up, it would be the lower inner piston on the 4 piston caliper. I removed wheel and started stripping it all down and when I collapsed the caliper pistons, to get the pads out of the caliper, sure enough, the inner lower piston was stuck. Going to end up doing calipers, hardware, pads and rotors soon. was ok to keep driving for now. Very short trip to work and home and was not locked up. See the even wear on the pads, too. The rest of the job went as planned and I also did a battery cable/posts corrosion clean up. The cv boot was bad enough that it had close to 1/2" slop when rocking the shaft and the grease that poured out was light grey, grease and water mix. Also found a seeping oil drain plug. had it changed recently at dealer. bet the seal was not replaced. It was tight.

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Ok, just ordered the rubber drip weatherstrip seals for both doors on my girls truck. A 1990 K2500. Not the entire door opening seal that is a complete circle but the other partial seal. At the same time I ordered the body side moldings 10 piece kits. All this from LMC truck. The only thing that bugs me is that I cannot get the "2500" emblem/decal/badge that is on each side. Cannot find them anywhere. It looks like I can swap the old emblems over but I would prefer new for the new molding. Best I can find is the stick on "bowtie2500" emblem that would attach at the paint on the door.

If anyone has a part number or source for the 2500 badges that attach at the side moldings, please let me know. Thanks. The part number for the stick on emblems are either 15551234 or 15551235.
 

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Ok, just ordered the rubber drip weatherstrip seals for both doors on my girls truck. A 1990 K2500. Not the entire door opening seal that is a complete circle but the other partial seal. At the same time I ordered the body side moldings 10 piece kits. All this from LMC truck. The only thing that bugs me is that I cannot get the "2500" emblem/decal/badge that is on each side. Cannot find them anywhere. It looks like I can swap the old emblems over but I would prefer new for the new molding. Best I can find is the stick on "bowtie2500" emblem that would attach at the paint on the door.

If anyone has a part number or source for the 2500 badges that attach at the side moldings, please let me know. Thanks. The part number for the stick on emblems are either 15551234 or 15551235.
Looks like they have em
 
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I found new ones of the 15551234 emblems for less money at ebay. But the ones I need that mount on to the side moldings and have the tabs to do so are 15551235 and those are at ebay as well. I have to wait till I get the LMC molding kits and see if the moldings have the slots cut in them to allow for the emblems with tabs to be mounted to them. If not, I can attempt to cut the slots of just get the smooth back stick on 15551234 emblems, for the doors.
 
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Sorry, no pics this time. Yesterday at 3:30 in the afternoon, my landlord's gardener for his rental properties, called and said was told "I fix vehicles". I asked what was wrong and she said her outer door handle had broken on her 2008 ranger with manual window crank. She/they had drilled out the two rivets that attach the handle base to the outer door skin but could not get handle out. I said bring it by and she had the replacement new handle. I showed her that the inner door panel had to come off and the moisture barrier pulls down and then release a clip for the linkage rod from the door latch to the back of handle. I found two small bolts and nuts and bolted in the new handle and attached the linkage rod and all worked fine and replaced the barrier and panel. Then she asked me to replace a burned out right rear t/s bulb. 4 screws later, that was done. She came back today and paid me the 1 hour labor charge of $80 cash. Asked if I did other work and oil changes and flushes and I said I did and she said would be in contact for other work.
 
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The 2008 4Runner owner contacted me today and complained of the brake pulsation I warned her about and I am now going to replace the front calipers, rotors, pads and hardware. She is in need of a drain and fill on the read diff. Gonna do that too. Will contact later today or tomorrow for a time and to give me money for parts.
 

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