Solid axle swap 2004 Yukon

[Yukon04]

Basically be the same as a 1500 series truck has anyone successfully completed it? Trying to get a little inside on what axle works best and what's all needed for the swap, once complete I'll be selling my rough country lift.

 

[h8nbmps]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/1093018-2001-silverado-solid-axle-swap-14ff-d60.html this one is a little helpful

---------- Post added at 09:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:53 PM ----------

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Default.aspx your going to need this also

---------- Post added at 09:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:06 PM ----------

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pr...y-SAS-Conversion-Kits:-2001-%2d-2007-1500-4wd this might help you out some

 

[Lentsnh2012]

Basically be the same as a 1500 series truck has anyone successfully completed it? Trying to get a little inside on what axle works best and what's all needed for the swap, once complete I'll be selling my rough country lift.

I have done many SAS on Toyota trucks and SUVs and also have worked on Jeep Wranglers and Cherokees for a longgg time.

What I can tell you is: DO NOT start until you have every single nut and bolt and have a well thought out plan. Too many times have I seen a SAS go wrong due to bad planning and not enough money to continue on the project.

Now that you have all of the smaller parts, What you'll need is:

-Drivers side drop D44 that shares the same lug nut pattern as stock. I say a Dana 44 just because you'll be able to find WMS-WMS widths that will be close to the 10 bolt width.
-Depending on how old the axle is, you may need to buy new lockout hubs, gears, bearings, seals, balljoints, etc.
-I highly suggest going with coilovers if you want to still drive it on the street and be comfortable. Therefore, You'll need to buy/fabricate a proper link system. 3 link with panhard works very well. Remember that the panhard bar MUST be the same length as the drag link to avoid any bumpsteer.
-A new steering system. You'll have to get a steering box from a SA truck so that it can handle the weight of the SUV and handle the duty (the last thing you want is for your steering fluid to overheat and loose steering!!!)
Note: Hydro-Assist and Full Hydro steering systems are illegal to use on the road.


The procedure:

-Get an oxyacetylene or plasma torch to cut ALL of the IFS stuff off.
-Remove the diff and CV axles
-Prep frame for welding
-Use PVC piping to get your link geometry correct instead of wasting hundreds of dollars on DOM sticks.
-Use Johnny Joints, or of the like. NEVER use heims on an on-road vehicle.
-Sway-Away, King, Walker Evans, Radflo, Fox Racing are all terrific coilover companies. Make sure you get the valving, spring rate and length of travel correct.
-You'll probably have to get another front driveshaft made.

I have only broken the surface of an solid axle swap, but as long as you have done your research, you should be fine. Good Luck!

 

[Gzes]

I have done many SAS on Toyota trucks and SUVs and also have worked on Jeep Wranglers and Cherokees for a longgg time.

What I can tell you is: DO NOT start until you have every single nut and bolt and have a well thought out plan. Too many times have I seen an SAS go wrong due to bad planning and not enough money to continue on the project.

Now that you have all of the smaller parts, What you'll need is:

-Drivers side drop D44 that shares the same lug nut pattern as stock. I say a Dana 44 just because you'll be able to find WMS-WMS widths that will be close to the 10 bolt width.
-Depending on how old the axle is, you may need to buy new lockout hubs, gears, bearings, seals, balljoints, etc.
-I highly suggest going with coilovers if you want to still drive it on the street and be comfortable. Therefore, You'll need to buy/fabricate a proper link system. 3 link with panhard works very well. Remember that the panhard bar MUST be the same length as the drag link to avoid any bumpsteer.
-A new steering system. You'll have to get a steering box from a SA truck so that it can handle the weight of the SUV and handle the duty (the last thing you want is for your steering fluid to overheat and loose steering!!!)
Note: Hydro-Assist and Full Hydro steering systems are illegal to use on the road.


The procedure:

-Get an oxyacetylene or plasma torch to cut ALL of the IFS stuff off.
-Remove the diff and CV axles
-Prep frame for welding
-Use PVC piping to get your link geometry correct instead of wasting hundreds of dollars on DOM sticks.
-Use Johnny Joints, or of the like. NEVER use heims on an on-road vehicle.
-Sway-Away, King, Walker Evans, Radflo, Fox Racing are all terrific coilover companies. Make sure you get the valving, spring rate and length of travel correct.
-You'll probably have to get another front driveshaft made.

I have only broken the surface of an solid axle swap, but as long as you have done your research, you should be fine. Good Luck!

x2 also would get a 2nd or 3rd set of hands if you got any experianced buddies

 

[Yukon04]

Let me go ahead and add I have a 4l80e swap I can run drivers side or pass side differential due to no electronic trans case or sensors in my trans case, my Denali was awd from factory. That's long since been changed with a manual shift case. That alone widens my search 80% for a front end, I really want a dana 60 however dana 44 I guess will suffice. I also want to run 8lug since I have a 14bolt from a H2 already and I have 8 lug wheels.

 

[Lentsnh2012]

Let me go ahead and add I have a 4l80e swap I can run drivers side or pass side differential due to no electronic trans case or sensors in my trans case, my Denali was awd from factory. That's long since been changed with a manual shift case. That alone widens my search 80% for a front end, I really want a dana 60 however dana 44 I guess will suffice. I also want to run 8lug since I have a 14bolt from a H2 already and I have 8 lug wheels.

Most of the time it isn't that easy. You'll have to get a GM specific t-case, like a NP205 or NP241. If you want anything different, you'll probably have to buy a clocking ring from Advanced Adapters.

Chevy was the only company that had Dana axles on the passenger side. Everything else was driver drop. If you search hard enough, you could find an 8-lug D44 from a Chevy 3/4 with the snow plow option. Most of those are total rust buckets though. Ford had an 8-lug in their F250s for a good long while, however, they are driver drop.

Make sure that the rear axle is, infact, a 14 bolt. Most "of the lot" H2s had the 12 bolt rear axle. It is still semi-float. If it is a 12 bolt, you might as well sell it off and get a real GM 14 bolt.

Also, when you're looking for a t-case, make sure the spline count is the same on the output of the transmission and the input of the t-case. And that you have a good t-case with a good chain. Chains for the New Process cases are not that cheap.

 

[xrunner0769]

we done my buddies 05 sierra 2500... he used a f250 axle and got matching 4.56 gears to match front and back. bought wheel hubs to match front and back wheels so ford axle with chevy lugged hubs and a buch of custom shackle and spring brackets used pvc to mock up linkages.. all in all 13 inch lift and 42s looks very nice ... I will ask him tomorrow where exactly he go he hubs ... he also had a driveshaft made to go from his tcase to the ford axle

 

[rabbiporkchop]

the cheapest front axle that would also be good would be the 79 F 250 8 lug Dana 44 hi pinion front axle

 

[Lentsnh2012]

the cheapest front axle that would also be good would be the 79 F 250 8 lug Dana 44 hi pinion front axle

Good luck finding one for a cheap price! All of the high pinion axles get nabbed quick for the rock crawler market.

 

[xrunner0769]

He used a 99 f250 axle wasnt what he wanted but we milled the hubs to fit chevy lug wheels and I run a plasma cnc machine to cut all the leaf spring mounts and all the little brackets but nothing a torch and grinder cant accomplish.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk