Remote battery disconnect switch

[m1949]

I'm having an issue with a parasitic drain of 110-170mA which I can't find. It Does Not Appear to be Fuse Related, as we removed all fuses, and the drain continues. Also, the drain doesn't cycle. It is always at least 110mA. I can't get it checked out by a shop before the end of March due to a shortage of shops who do auto electrical repairs in my area. So, until I can get it checked by a professional my backup plan is to install a battery disconnect switch/relay that is controlled via a remote keyfod. I'd like recommendations from anyone who has gone this route. Thanks.

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm having an issue with a parasitic drain of 1.1-1.7mA which I can't find. It IS NOT fuse related, as w removed all fuses, and the drain continues. Also, the drain doesn't cycle. It is always at least 1.1mA. I can't get it checked out by a shop before the end of March due to a shortage of shops who do auto electrical repairs in my area. So, until I can get it checked by a professional my backup plan is to install a battery disconnect switch/relay that is controlled via a remote keyfod. I'd like recommendations from anyone who has gone this route. Thanks.

easy enough to do, the problem here lies in the amperage, you need a pretty hefty relay.
there are several found on ebay, many are coming from china which means a 3-6 week delivery time, but there may be some local to u,s,
I wouldn't buy the cheapest one, you get what you pay for as we all (should) know

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[Joseph Garcia]

I don't think that a 1.1 - 1.7ma draw is excessive, and it would take quite a bit of time to drain a good battery. Have you had the battery load tested on a bench (not some portable setup)? Many auto parts stores have bench load testers for batteries.

 

[Fless]

Normal draw with all modules asleep is about 15-25 mA. 50 mA is acceptable but it can get better with some attention to connections and how aftermarket devices are powered.

Are you using an ammeter inline with the negative battery cable to measure this? Inductive clamp meters are generally not able to correctly read very low draws like these, unless they're spec'd and designed to. Perhaps you mean 1.1 A. (?)

Any aftermarket devices? Radio, alarm system, remote start, etc.?

Is there nothing connected directly to the battery (or the red positive junction box), other than the one positive cable and the double ground cable?

Have the alternator checked for bad diodes or a leaky circuit.

 

[m1949]

I don't think that a 1.1 - 1.7ma draw is excessive, and it would take quite a bit of time to drain a good battery. Have you had the battery load tested on a bench (not some portable setup)? Many auto parts stores have bench load testers for batteries.

I've had the battery checked 3 times. It checks ok. I even fully charged it outside the truck and left it overnight which is the time it takes to drain when connected to the truck. The next morning the battery was still fully charged. I think I had my decimal point in the wrong place on original post. I believe the draw I'm seeing is 110-170 mA. Acceptable load spec I'm seeing online is 50mA.

 

[m1949]

Normal draw with all modules asleep is about 15-25 mA. 50 mA is acceptable but it can get better with some attention to connections and how aftermarket devices are powered.

Are you using an ammeter inline with the negative battery cable to measure this? Inductive clamp meters are generally not able to correctly read very low draws like these, unless they're spec'd and designed to. Perhaps you mean 1.1 A. (?)

Any aftermarket devices? Radio, alarm system, remote start, etc.?

Is there nothing connected directly to the battery (or the red positive junction box), other than the one positive cable and the double ground cable?

Have the alternator checked for bad diodes or a leaky circuit.

Alternator is new and checked out ok. Don't have anything connected directly to battery accept positive cable and ground cable

 

[Fless]

When did this start, or how long has it been going on? Any changes just prior to the issue?

 

[m1949]

Nothing was added or changed immediately before the drain got bad enough to not start the car when it sat overnight. It started about 3 weeks ago. The last electrical issue was the HVAC blower motor control module failed. That was about 3 or 4 months back. But with HVAC fuse removed the drain still appears. I went thru removing ALL fuses and relays and the drain remained.

 

[Fless]

The positive battery cable goes to the starter. FWIW you could see if there is a connection issue at the starter, or a bad solenoid that is contributing to the drain. Have you tried disconnecting the cables from the red junction box to see if it changes anything?

 

[m1949]

I disconnected the starter solinoid and drain remains. Also checked alternatior and connections, same. What I'm asking for is advice on a good, reliable remote battery disconnect switch I can install until I can get the truck to an electric repair shop. There are only two in our area, and both are backed up at least 6 weeks.