Odd surging issue now coolant in the oil

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Cheesehead

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Yea she is a little dirty. I was expecting something far worse. I have seen worst, I had 2001 chrysler 300m with a 3.6 looked some baked a cake in valve covers out of carbon. I would have had the heads off last night except I ran out of cheap oil to purge the system. And all the storest were closed.

Should I worry about the little bit of carbon on the push rods at all?

When I pump up the oil system, will it register on oil pressure gauge in the car? Also I lost my oil priming tool in my garage somewhere can i just use a screw driver tip on an extension? Yes I have the locking extensions.
 

SunlitComet

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you can buff out the carbon on the push rods if you like but if it is not is a friction area you can leave it just don't take the metal with it. do make sure they are clean on the inside for sure.

if the crank idle at say 650rpm the the cam should be at 325. since the dizzy gear is smaller then the cam gear you can get idle pressure if the pumping tool was at say 400 rpm. with the key on the gauge will work. i would not chance not have the tool. leaves the possibility of shavings as iirc the pump shaft is slotted but with no closed ends to keep a tip from flying outward against the block or cam.

see if you can reach the tool rpm i mentioned and see what kind of pressure you get before pulling the heads. if you can not reach say a decent amount the bearings may be damaged already.

btw how effective is the flushing going for you?

when the time is right let me know and i can post the guide for replacement/build up and adjustments for assembly.
 
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Not even going to bother with cleaning the push rods. One of those it isn't broken don't fix it moments.

I got as far as draining the old oil and filter. Threw some new oil in her and have been looking for my priming tool. The garage has been in a state of displacement this year. Nothing is in the right spot. We have been working on some home reconstructive surgery and the spare supplies are in the garage with the truck and the tools and the spare parts for the Corvair and Cuda. A two car garage can only hold so much stuff I found out....Time to figure out how to get a bigger shop...

I should be able to get the drill up to 400rpm. I know the drill will cruse at about 25-30 mph on the cuda's speedo. I was asking about the pressure gauge because I was thinking the same thing. I figure if the first chuck of oil can't get much past 10 psi with the drill I might have a spun barring already. I going to mess with it tonight once I get home from work. I want to get the heads off tonight so I can at least take all the parts with me to work and barrow the maintenance guys parts cleaning mega washer!! Got to love having a full machine shop at work.
 
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Hey sun,

Can you post up the guide for the build up and adjustments please. Hopefully I can get to it tonight
 

SunlitComet

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do the heads, valve clearance, reset the engine to tdc firing cylinder 1 after valve clearance and don't turn crank until dizzy is in, the intake, dizzy then finish with the tbi.
 

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  • gmt400 L05 cylinder head r&r.pdf
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  • gmt400 L05 intake manifold r&r.pdf
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  • gmt400 L05 tbi r&r.pdf
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  • gmt400 L05 valve adjustment.pdf
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Sun. Good news. First round of cleaning oil and puppy hit 20psi of oil. The bearings should be good...back to work, had to come in for a coffee break and to ditch the cold weather gear.
 
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around 30 degrees. Warm enough that I didn't have to have the heater running the whole time I have been in the garage. Also found out why the number 7 plug looks so nice. That is where the head gasket was leaking. The number 7 cylinder is steam cleaned that is for sure. Any advise on cleaning up some carbon build up on the pistons with out removing them?
 
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