loosing .5 gal of coolant in 24 miles?

[SunlitComet]

congrats on the find. photo document all you can on the repairs. you know the right parts to use correct or you need the parts list?

 

[Jerky Arm Ape]

I don't know exact part #'s, but have planed:
Fel pro ms90008 or mst90008 (something like that) manifold gasket set.
Felpro manifold bolts.
1 extra valve cover gasket.
Am going to replace the quick connect with the barbed fitting and lenght of hose.

If I need a manifold I want to use the dorman bc of price but if you know it to be junk then I'll go delco.
Should I replace anything else?
I'll prob do pcv valve and/or grommet if needed.
Pretty much just inspect everything as I disassemble.

 

[SunlitComet]

Fel-Pro ES72224 Engine Intake Manifold Bolt Set

Fel-Pro MS98000T Manifold Gasket Set



Fel-Pro VS50293R Valve Cover Set



ACDelco 15-30900 GM Original Equipment Heater Hose Fitting



100 buck plus tax and shipping at amazon. and if fuel system is old design then injection upgrade as well. note delphi is much higher in price compared to delco at the moment. shop wisely. also remember to tap head hole for manifold bolts so pre-applied seals well.

---------- Post added at 09:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 PM ----------

oh and i cant dorman for anything. everything i have gotten from them fails in some way in about six months.

ACDelco 17113201



or


Delphi FH10111


delphi are pricey right now tho.

---------- Post added at 09:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:36 PM ----------

or do you want to go marine? very hard to find parts tho.

 

[Jerky Arm Ape]

Water leaked into the block after the pressurizer blew out the gasket or whatever it is that I heard inside the manifold.
The oil is about 4 " past the full marking on the dipstick.

I haven't started the engine since that happened.

Need to know, what should I do?

Can I drain the oil and re fill it, change it again after it runs for a few minutes?

 

[SunlitComet]

best way is in my opinion to drain it and with the intake removed fill up the oil and use a drill and pump prime tool a while to wash it out of bearings and passages. circulate oil that way a lot then drain and refill until you see no trace of coolant in the oil laying all around the heads and block valley. don't run engine but some where along long the way turn crank a few revs by hand to help possibly expelling coolant trapped in the bearings. do the flush a few times using some cheap filters that have paper media wipe every thing up then re-prime with the last oil one more time till it is everywhere. build it back up test then if test is successful then change oil twice more at a few couple of hundred miles each time. if all goes well then the bearing should survive with very minimal or no damage. this will add more labor time and about $100-150 more to cost for supplies i think.

 

[Jerky Arm Ape]

Ok I have a oil pump deal that was used for carbureted engines.
Are they year model specific?

 

[SunlitComet]

dont recall exactly but think not. i do remember when i borrowed from autozone i had to shave down the tip a little bit for it to fit into pump. think that was just damage but autozone said works on any small block

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

if yer talking about the drill bit that you stick were the distributer normall goes i think you can use it i just have no idea were it would go since its not going inplace of a distributer

 

[SunlitComet]

it is slotted to fit the pump shaft as if the dizzy was in place. it goes from the pump up the dizzy shaft hole where you attached drill. some make them out of old dizzy parts.

 

[Jerky Arm Ape]

I actually think that mine is am old dizzy without the cam drive gear on it.