How low can I go? Just ordered tires!

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Goodlife_chevy

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Happy Monday everyone, finally got some tires ordered today!
Going to be running 24x10 with a 30 offset, on 295/35/24r tires, just curious on how low you guys were able to drop your Tahoes. I really want to drop the front 1-2 inches and the back 2-3 inches, just trying to get as much feed back from people that have done so before I decide on the drop kit.
Curious on how low you went when the rubbing started, as well and also if the rubbing is just at full steering wheel tilt or how big of a pain it is to you.
Also some before and after photos of your lowered on 24s is much appreciated! Excited to get the Tahoe sitting the way I want it!IMG_8804.jpeg
 

CMoore711

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With 24 x 10 +30 on 295/35R24's I would do a 2/3 drop and call it good. That 295/35R24 is as close to an overall tire diameter to a 285/45R22 as you can get for a 24" wheel; Which would be the OEM tire size on GMT900's optioned with 22" wheels.

I tried to find a thread like the "Show off your 2015-2020 lowered tahoes and yukons" but for the '07-'14 GMT900s and there doesn't seem to be one in the Street Suspension sub forum or I didn't search enough. But this will give you some pretty close visual ideas: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/show-off-your-2015-2020-lowered-tahoes-and-yukons.92185/

I know mine wasn't a GMT900, but here's the thread to my '15 Yukon XL Denali dropped on 24's / 305/35R24:

If you have any rubbing at all it'll be at full lock and it'll happen right on the rear side of the front wheel well. With a 295/35R24 and +30 offset you may not rub at all. I had 24" x 10" +28 305/35R24's and only had minimal rubbing at full lock on the back side of the front wheel well. Over time I did wear a hole through my factory fender liners and then ended up replacing the fender liners and doing what's referred to as the "Norcal Mod".

Here's a video of the "Norcal Mod" I'm referring to; The process is the same on the GMT900 platform and if your tires rub at all it'll be in this same spot referred to in this video:

Personally, I much prefer the idea of drop spindles in the front. Because spindles don't have an affect on the length or pre-loading on the factory strut and spring; Therefore the ride quality remains the same as stock. However, it's been reported by some owners that some drop spindles can impact turning radius, as in making it so your vehicle doesn't turn quite as tight of a radius. If so it's very minimal and you'll only notice it in parking lots pulling into tight spots. You likely won't notice it at all since you have a Tahoe and not a Suburban/XL/ESV.

Not all drop spindles are created equal. Depending on your OEM suspension, how old your springs are, etc. You may or may not get a full 2" drop from front drop spindles. But that's also ok because if you only got 1-1/2"-1-3/4" drop out of some front 2" drop spindles then that still falls within range of your target front drop of 1"-2".


What's the exact year and model trim of your Tahoe?
Do you know what factory RPO suspension code you have?

Providing the exact year, model trim, and RPO suspension code you have will help others provide some insight on what type of lowering kit/parts to use.
 

Doug118

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2/3 would be about as low as I’d go with a 295/35/24 to avoid having to trim fender liners, fenders, etc. You might have a slight rub if you hit a dip at full lock but it won’t be anything major
 

Doug118

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This is a 3” drop with a 28” wheel. Its 1” taller than what you want to run and it rubbed slightly at the front of the quarter panel so you should have plenty of space with a 295/35/24IMG_3361.jpeg
 
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Goodlife_chevy

Goodlife_chevy

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Can’t help you with low settings but your truck looks awesome! What are you using for wax/coating - ceramic or wax? Really nice glow!
Thanks man! Detailed in my early 20s for years and got to learn a ton of things from smart people that now own their own shops. I actually have only hit it with a stage one with a Rupes polisher, one of my favorite detailing tools, once I get past all the wheel and tires I want to hit it with all three stages! Works very nicely tp clean up removing decals, side moulding, etc after you use an eraser wheel.
 

kbuskill

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I have never ran 24s, only 22s.

I was running a 4/6 drop on 285/40/22 tires with zero rubbing. I did do the "Norcal" mod to the front.

After swapping tires out to a 305/40/22 it rubbed horribly so I lifted the truck up 2" all the way around and am now at 2/4 with no rubbing.

I am not certain how all of this may relate to your wheels and drop BUT I was tagged so I figured I better respond so I don't end up in trouble with the boss... @89Suburban .... lol

20210131_175420.jpg
2/4 on 305/40/22s

20210130_080658.jpg
4/6 on 305/40/22s right before being lifted 2"

Resized_20190711_183504.jpeg
4/6 on 285/40/22s

I loved the 4/6 drop. The only reason I changed to the 305/40s is because I wanted to try the Michelin tires and they didn't offer them in a 285/40. They did have a 295/40 but the cost was literally twice as much as the 305s. 305 = $232 each and 295 = $465 each... crazy.

After these wear out I will probably try to find some 285s and go back to the 4/6.
 
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KidWgn

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2/3 would be about as low as I’d go with a 295/35/24 to avoid having to trim fender liners, fenders, etc. You might have a slight rub if you hit a dip at full lock but it won’t be anything major
Saying this without quantifying wheel width and offset doesn't hold much weight.

I was on 305/35/24 with 24x10 +25, dropped 3.5/5, and only had minor rubbing over big drops in the front. The rears had PLENTY of room
 

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