Experienced box builders!!

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djtoothowd

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ok so im ordering my SA-15 D4's (two of them) and i want to go ahead and get started on building my box but this will be my first build. i want a slotted box with the port to the hatch and the subs on top of the box. any help with deminsions would be fantastic. dont want anything fancy but i do want a small compartment for lights and a plexiglass cut-out design towards the rear but i think i can handle that myself. thanks
 

abladeafficionado

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Determine your required volume and tuning frequency, plug those into a box calculator, I recommend WinISD or the 12v electronics site. Then design the box around the required port length and volume. You'll probably want 125 in^2 or more of port area.

Once you decide on required volume and tune, it'll be pretty easy to design a box.
 

TnTahoe

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yeah you are asking for a tall order lol, but i do have experience and I'm willing to point you in the right direction, there is also a nice free box program that i got from smd, it should help you out, i can email it to ya if you want
check out my album and you can see a few boxes ive built
 

BeaverGod

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ok so im ordering my SA-15 D4's (two of them) and i want to go ahead and get started on building my box but this will be my first build. i want a slotted box with the port to the hatch and the subs on top of the box. any help with deminsions would be fantastic. dont want anything fancy but i do want a small compartment for lights and a plexiglass cut-out design towards the rear but i think i can handle that myself. thanks

just a note on plexiglass and lights....the easiest way to do that imo is to purchase 3/4" thick plexiglass so that all you have to do is make a frame for the windows. on the panel of the box facing the rear of the vehicle size it up then cut out the size plexiglass you have. next create a "frame" on the inside that will create a "shelf" about an inch on all 4 sides that once assembled, all you have to do is drop in your plexiglass cuts onto it and they will be flush with rest of the panel.

a few points of emphasis here:

1. you will need to paint the inside of your box because now youll be seeing into it. preferably white if you have lights inside

2. construct your rear facing panel with plexiglass frames seperately

3. make sure you secure the frames with wood screws just the same as the rest of the box. to reinforce the structure while you do so just lay it on the floor to support the back of the frames equally while you drill in and secure the plexiglass windows. (plexiglass is a ***** to predrill. you must make sure youre holes are straight).

4. carpeting can get tricky around the plexiglass because wood screws will pierce and crack the glass and other screws will leave a hump at the top. i always painted a once inch frame around the window to ensure the wooden frame on the back was hidden. and used black screws to secure the plexiglass.

5. the challenge with carpeting is you either carpet this rear facing panel seperately and do so before dropping in the plexi windows so that you can cleanly address the area around each frame or you can cut squares holes around the plexiglass windows and use a paint scraper to wedge it in the tiny cracks between the windows and surrounding wood.

6. make sure you seal each window with clear silicone and use white or clear on the inside because everything will be seen.

7. for the lights.......keep in mind everytime these burn out or break youll be disassembling your box to replace them. use a speaker wire terminal and wire them that way. you can paintable tape to cover the wire running to each light and once you paint the inside of your box youll never see it.

8. placement of the lights is crucial. ideally you dont want to see the bulb just the glow so try placing them on the same panel as your plexiglass just on the sides and corners.

good luck. ive done many plexiglass boxes. none of which were for myself. theyre just too expensive and too much of a PITA to justify. when you think about how much time youll really be in the back of your car looking at the subs or showing them, you might change your mind. not to mention i almost forgot......


9!!!!!!!!!!!! make sure you have a toggle switch on those lights. if the panel is facing the rear of the vehicle in an suv youre never going to be able to see out the rear window at night with all that glow and youll hate it.
 
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djtoothowd

djtoothowd

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Yes TN please do

---------- Post added at 03:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:41 PM ----------

You can pm me or send email [email protected]

---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:43 PM ----------

Ant my plexiglass idea wasn't going to be the whole wall.....just a cut of a chevy emblem in its on little compartment ....not looking into the speaker compartment or nothing. Just something to light up for show
 

abladeafficionado

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Avoid the RE box calculator at all costs, it's notorious for being inaccurate.. WinISD is free and pretty good. BassBox Pro is a fantastic program also, but it costs $150.
 
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djtoothowd

djtoothowd

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Ok....haven't been able to think about anything but this box for days. Lol. Think I finally have box dimensions but not port dimensions. I've got 49*17.5*17.5 w*h*d for outside which gives me 47.5*16*16 w*h*d for inside which gives me 7.03 airspace. But I kno it will change when I add the port so im thinking I can make it a little deeper if neccessary. Don't kno where to put port but want to face it toward the hatch. Wanted it on the bottom going long ways. Don't kno how much to subtract for speaker displacement either. Should I brace it? So many thoughts please help. The calcutors don't help me lol.
 

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