Cluster Panel doesn't illuminate
- Thread starter Tamika
- Start date
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Ok. Here's a few things I found out in my search today.
1. All the wires look good going to my radio (but should the radio make a slight buzzing noise after I turn off the ignition and open the drivers door? It does for about 30 seconds or so) I did disconnect both harnesses and tried a new fuse and it still blew the IS LPS fuse instantly, couldn't get the antenna unplugged, was scared I was going to break it somehow. Does it just pull off the back of the Radio?
2. Replaced reverse light and that has stayed working
3. Brake light on drivers side does not work, but the running light does which is the same bulb, is this normal for a bulb to do That? Some idiot stripped the bottom screw to the assembly so I cant replace the bulb until I get that out.
4. Radio is still static on every channel, otherwise works as it should
5. #17 fuse labeled IS LPS (Interior Lamps 10 amp) blows instantly even with the vehicle off and key out of the ignition
6. Dome lights do not work when the doors open, but do click on manually, and the switch on the dash does work to stop them from being manually turned on.
7. Found the harness and cut wires under my dash below the steering wheel. Taped up all exposed ends and the plastic connector to make sure nothing was grounding out.
8. Last but not least, my light sensor is still working in reverse. Can any harm be done if I disconnect that and try to see if it is the short? And does anyone know what fuse that is on? If it has one.
I'm at a loss. Frustrated, and tired of blowing fuse after fuse. Any ideas based on what is above? Any common Tahoe problems associated with the antenna to the radio grounding out and so on? Thanks. I appreciate it more than you all know! Sorry this was so long!
1. All the wires look good going to my radio (but should the radio make a slight buzzing noise after I turn off the ignition and open the drivers door? It does for about 30 seconds or so) I did disconnect both harnesses and tried a new fuse and it still blew the IS LPS fuse instantly, couldn't get the antenna unplugged, was scared I was going to break it somehow. Does it just pull off the back of the Radio?
2. Replaced reverse light and that has stayed working
3. Brake light on drivers side does not work, but the running light does which is the same bulb, is this normal for a bulb to do That? Some idiot stripped the bottom screw to the assembly so I cant replace the bulb until I get that out.
4. Radio is still static on every channel, otherwise works as it should
5. #17 fuse labeled IS LPS (Interior Lamps 10 amp) blows instantly even with the vehicle off and key out of the ignition
6. Dome lights do not work when the doors open, but do click on manually, and the switch on the dash does work to stop them from being manually turned on.
7. Found the harness and cut wires under my dash below the steering wheel. Taped up all exposed ends and the plastic connector to make sure nothing was grounding out.
8. Last but not least, my light sensor is still working in reverse. Can any harm be done if I disconnect that and try to see if it is the short? And does anyone know what fuse that is on? If it has one.
I'm at a loss. Frustrated, and tired of blowing fuse after fuse. Any ideas based on what is above? Any common Tahoe problems associated with the antenna to the radio grounding out and so on? Thanks. I appreciate it more than you all know! Sorry this was so long!
CrashTestDummy
Full Access Member
We had the exact same issue with our '10 PPV! Oddly, it would work again when I unplugged the bulb and reconnected it... for a while. I even cleaned the socket and coated it with a bit of dielectric grease. It would work a while, then stop working. While it's the same bulb, it's a different circuit. You can (or should) see two filaments in that bulb. If there's only one (1156 = backup bulb), you have the wrong bulb in that socket. You'll need a 1157/3057 bulb. If it's the correct bulb, you can try to reseat the bulb and see if you get operation back, or just replace it. I eventually had to replace the one on our truck, the last time I pulled the bulb, I could see the tell-tail dark coloration on the inside of the bulb, indicating one of the filaments has burned.
So far, so good. We have about 3 months of service from the new bulb. Fingers crossed.
Thank you! I'm going to replace the bulb tonight hopefully, and the other brake light bulb on the passenger side as it is blackened so probably could use a new one anyways. Now, if I can just get the screw out to get to the bulb, that's the trickiest part here. Just couldn't be easy
ScottyBoy
Full Access Member
I'm not sure if that's the upfitter harness or not, but all that wiring that is zip tied to that brace is DEFINITELY aftermarket wiring. I also see a lot if unused wires that are just exposed and not wrapped with anything. Could that be an issue? Maybe, or maybe not. From where it sits and the fact that it's secured in place with zip ties, it looks like those wires wouldn't be shorting on anything. If you can, try to trace that harness to see where it splices in to the factory harness. It will probably be spliced with connectors like the butt splice on that pink wire in your picture. Look for any wires that look "butchered" or hacked up as if they were hastily cut. That may or may not be an issue if they quickly removed some police equipment and didn't insulate or secure the wires that they cut. Also, go ahead and try disconnecting that ambient light sensor and see if it makes any difference. It's worth a shot.
