Cargo Area Light Mod

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dbbd1

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Today, I added some white LED bolts/ eagle eyes/ whatever to help brighten up the cargo area. I just tapped into the fuse block at the rear driver's side. There was even a male spade unused. I did put an inline fuse into the circuit too. I used a 10 amp, only because I did bot have a 5 amp laying around right now, the 4- 9w LED's (if that's true) should draw about 3 amps total. After you look at the pic's, you'll see why I am glad that I did not use 6 of them.

The first pic is with them off...

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The next is with them on...

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And this one is just showing the eagle eyes (2 of the 4)...

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In the second pic, between the 1st and 2nd eagle eye from the left, you can barely see a blue dot. That is the indicator on my switch for the lights. I would have loved to tie them into the dome circuit but I just didn't want to give them that much thought. The manual switch will work just fine. Where I tapped into the rear fuse panel has +12v all of the time too. I did think about using some of those COB white lights that are advertised for "DRL's" but these are more directed and no glare.

(pic's were taken with flash off, in case you're wondering)
 

Off1c3r

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Nice job! Looks really clean. I literally was thinking about doing this project today. Can you provide any other details on the installation process? Issues you ran into?
 
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dbbd1

dbbd1

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0 issues. It went nice and smooth. I'll take a pic of the +12v point that I used tomorrow. I was very careful where I put the lights. They are 1" tall on the back side. I believe I put them all in 1-1/2" in towards the front from the back edge/lip/curve. Then I more or less placed them next to the standoffs where the panel clips would go. I say "would" because on my panel, I had, I think, 3 clips that were not there. Not missing, probably never installed. The few clips that hold it up are more than sufficient. On that note, those clips, which are red, are buggers. They hold tight. I was able to shine a light in there, while prying the panel down a bit and with my third hand, use a long screwdriver to help pop them out.

The switch is in a similar spot, close to a standoff.

Because I am slightly OCD (that's like I am slightly Polish, ha!), I put in female/male spades near the switch so that I can remove the whole panel without removing or cutting any wiring.
 
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dbbd1

dbbd1

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Here are pics of the +12v and ground points. I just added another metric to the stud and secured my ground that way. power tap.JPG20180128144614ground point.JPG

My fuse is inline, so you don't see it in this pic.
 

08grey

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Here are pics of the +12v and ground points. I just added another metric to the stud and secured my ground that way. View attachment 191723View attachment 191724

My fuse is inline, so you don't see it in this pic.
Quick tip. The reflector on the eagle eyes like to fall out. If you pop it out and add some clear silicone and reinstall it will stay forever. Nice clean job!!!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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dbbd1

dbbd1

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Can you do mine? I have nice bourbon!


If you bring it here (or pay for travel), I'd love to, actually. Heck, I still have 6 lights out of my 10-pack leftover...

But, bourbon? I'll pass. I'm a gin or tequila (straight up) guy.
 

05Single

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Quick tip. The reflector on the eagle eyes like to fall out. If you pop it out and add some clear silicone and reinstall it will stay forever. Nice clean job!!!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Yep. Happened to both my mirror/puddle lights. But they're still just as bright and actually spread out more instead of the focused beam patter from the projector lens. My cargo lights are still intact so far. Wasn't even mad since they're basically $1 each lol.
Since David did not mount on any moving part (door, hatch) they should stay together :shrug:
4 is way too much for me, but it's all about preference. Clean install and welcome to the elite cargo light club lol :winner_first_h4h:
 
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