Best exhaust system w/o losing backpressure etc.

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Benlack

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I have been looking into putting a new exhaust on my 4.8 Tahoe. The thing i keep seeing popup is the argument over back pressure. Some seem to think its a myth and that you cannot lose power by running straight pipes. I know from personal experience that isn't completely true. Back in high school my friend had an 05 GMC sierra with a 5.3. He had true dual straights with 3in piping and cats no mufflers. Being in high school anytime we were next to each other at a stoplight we obviously raced. And that GMC lost to 1) A stock cat eye with a 4.8 2) A reg cab long bed f150 work truck with a v6. 3) A honda odyssey minivan (my buddy had moms car for the night). The point is the truck was slow as dirt and when you look it up that's what other people seem to agree on. The point is I would like my truck to be loud. I would also like this exhaust not to hurt anything in the engine. Someone else said that lack of back pressure can lead to issues with valve seals. Tell me what you think.

Thanks!
Ben
 

Countryboy07

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I'd look into a cat back system, and or just replace your muffler. I replaced the stock muffler on our '05 Yukon with a Magnaflow 12259 from @NORCAL SS and love it. Has a great tone, loud when you step on the gas, but tame when cruising. If you have never had a Tahoe, Suburban, or Yukon, one thing to remember is that these vehicles have a terrible resonance inside the cabin if you have the exhaust exit under the vehicle anywhere. I ran a turndown before the rear axle for a week before I got my new tail pipe put in and it was super annoying.

One more option would be Long tube headers, High flow cats, and a Muffler of your choosing. This would make your Tahoe pretty loud and sound good while doing it.
 

bottomline2000

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exhaust velocity is what makes torque which is what you want in a big heavy truck. having once been a high school kid tearing shit up...what else was done to this truck and most important what kind of gearing did it have? my truck has 3.42 gears and with the stock motor couldn't get out its own way from a start..just opening up the exhaust wasn't going to make it better...most say adding a muffler on these these trucks is just for sound. if that's all you want cut out the factory muffler and replace it. the smaller the muffler, generally the louder. now my current set up is pretty fast and loud and i don't have a problem with pesky minivans out running me either lol...but i have thought about putting a bigger muffler in to quiet it down some..
 

carduke

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Another vote for getting a new muffler if you just want to improve the sound of your ride. If budget is not a problem, a complete exhaust kit won't do any harm. Then upgrade your intake for improved sound and performance.
 

MooseKuckle

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Question: I live in Texas and it get pretty damn hot. I've been told by multiple exhaust mechanics that if I install LT headers I better be prepared to replace sensors due to extensive heat in the engine compartment. I don't want to wrap it and coating is pretty costly. Would Ram air scoop hood do enough to keep things cool enough to eliminate this issue?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

bottomline2000

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Question: I live in Texas and it get pretty damn hot. I've been told by multiple exhaust mechanics that if I install LT headers I better be prepared to replace sensors due to extensive heat in the engine compartment. I don't want to wrap it and coating is pretty costly. Would Ram air scoop hood do enough to keep things cool enough to eliminate this issue?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
What do you consider costly for coating? I have LT and am in Texas. This will be my first summer with headers, but they are coated and I haven't noticed a lot on our 80 deg days so far..I know we hit 100 lol
 

MooseKuckle

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What do you consider costly for coating? I have LT and am in Texas. This will be my first summer with headers, but they are coated and I haven't noticed a lot on our 80 deg days so far..I know we hit 100 lol
Well, they're nearly twice as expensive as non-coated, which puts it near the $600 mark for Hookers. wanted to stay around $300 and since I'm not wanting to mess around and breaking manifold bolts I am having them installed for $300. Ya, they said it won't affect it until you get to the mid 90's and if you hit 100+ for a length of time (which we seem to do every summer) it could be a huge pain as DD. Non-coated obviously.
 

bottomline2000

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Well, they're nearly twice as expensive as non-coated, which puts it near the $600 mark for Hookers. wanted to stay around $300 and since I'm not wanting to mess around and breaking manifold bolts I am having them installed for $300. Ya, they said it won't affect it until you get to the mid 90's and if you hit 100+ for a length of time (which we seem to do every summer) it could be a huge pain as DD. Non-coated obviously.
Yeah I'll see soon enough. I had my headers coated for a couple hundred bucks inside and out and that included stripping the old coating. They seem to be better than stockers but we'll see if heat is a problem.....i know they cool off fast!.. I've installed these headers a couple times no problem but my fitment is spot on. The coating was well worth it for me.

f73cb5f701c861fb80ecc9ab6c9a7ad8.jpg
4c101d4fd1de44e67807ebf400665489.jpg
 

MooseKuckle

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Yeah I'll see soon enough. I had my headers coated for a couple hundred bucks inside and out and that included stripping the old coating. They seem to be better than stockers but we'll see if heat is a problem.....i know they cool off fast!.. I've installed these headers a couple times no problem but my fitment is spot on. The coating was well worth it for me.

f73cb5f701c861fb80ecc9ab6c9a7ad8.jpg
4c101d4fd1de44e67807ebf400665489.jpg
Thanks for the info and pics. Who did your cam by the way and if you paid, how much? Next mod for me after LT's
 

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