What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Ordered GM charcoal canister, purge valve and gas cap replacing parts this weekend.

blackelky said:

Ordered GM charcoal canister, purge valve and gas cap replacing parts this weekend.

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don't forget the one under the hood

Doubeleive said:

don't forget the one under the hood

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The one under the hood IS the purge. Vent valve is in the back.

Fless said:

The one under the hood IS the purge. Vent valve is in the back.

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I always get them confused unless I go look it up..... lol
I recomend a shotgun approach, just bend over once and be done with it.
and use OEM
and oddly enough it's always this time of year when the weather changes that they crap out
just like batteries

It's either the weather change or right before you go to get your smog check for new tags.

Removed my audio splitter that routes rear radio outputs to front amp inputs.
I made it to get rid of annoying chimes... key in, door open.

HOWEVER, my son hit the Rear Seat Audio button. That mutes the rear output from the amp, but it also turns the radio rear output to 100%. (going to headphone jacks)
When he hit that button, the CD played FULL BLAST through the front speakers! About gave me a heart attack.

Also, updated to 2013 & 2014 knock retard settings. Should lessen the amount of timing pulled mostly.
Screenshot shows 2014 compared to 2012.
maybe 2 or 3 degrees less timing pulled for knock events.. med to full throttle upto 2500 rpms.?

I'm gonna go WAAAY faster now! (6l80 transmission tuning IS way worth it however..)

did you log the knock retard to see if it was using? I kinda don't mind a aggressive timing pull.

I did not. Have seen some knock retard in the past, upto maybe 5 degrees. Just found a log where it was 0.6 degrees pulled..
40% throttle, 2400 rpms in 1st, 35kpa.. not really in the change portion. (.6 was probably interpolated from neighboring cells)
Maybe when the weather warms up.

These are the actual values, gray areas are the updated areas that have be reduced from pre 2013 tunes.

Shouldn't matter unless you are getting that much timing pulled.
So that probably wasn't worth the programming cycle..

mikez71 said:

I did not. Have seen some knock retard in the past, upto maybe 5 degrees. Just found a log where it was 0.6 degrees pulled..
40% throttle, 2400 rpms in 1st, 35kpa.. not really in the change portion. (.6 was probably interpolated from neighboring cells)
Maybe when the weather warms up.

These are the actual values, gray areas are the updated areas that have be reduced from pre 2013 tunes.
View attachment 426102
Shouldn't matter unless you are getting that much timing pulled.
So that probably wasn't worth the programming cycle..

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I'm usually very conservative with timing, cause I honestly don't care about a few hp these days. these days for hp you add boost and e85 or you're just pissing in the wind. but if you did want to adjust timing, I forget if you run 87 or if you have a 6.2L. but for street tuning timing there's some good youtube videos, but basically run what fuel you're willing to pay for, all 4deg across the whole mpa and then go log timing and retard. take those logs and use the special % to pull half the retard amount out till you get logs with no timing pull, or very little. a few 0.5 deg eh.

if you want to go that deep but make sure you have your fuel, maf and ve dialed in first, they are both part of the cylinder airmass calculation. so they can actually change the point on the timing table that the values are pulled from. so fuel changes can change the timing you're running. it's very weird, but just how gm did these newer os's

Installed a Hopkins Towing dual connector 7 blade/4 pin. Picked it up at Walmart for $15 (on clearance) and is a direct fit for GM vehicles. Took about 5 minutes.