I feel like if you're going to open the diff you might as well replace all the bearings or at least buy a full rebuild kit so you have everything on hand.
As long as the caliper floats properly, meaning it slides in and out just fine with little to NO play in any other direction then I'd say it's fine. As for the slider with the rubber boot on it, i wouldn't worry about where it goes since pretty much every after market slide pin I've seen...
I'm going through the same thing right now. Thinking about grinding/sanding, and painting then maybe oil coating everything. But theres soo many rust products out there i want to get it right the first time.
There's multiple adjusters on the vehicle, at the rotor/drum which should only be used to set the shoes/drag, along the body on the drivers side just outside the frame rail which is what i'd use to set pedal stiffness.
Trucks FIXED....
******SOLUTION******
Pinion nut wasn't tight enough. I didn't have a beam torque wrench and for some reason no one near by carries them so i did it by feel. When i got under my truck i removed the drive shaft and there was noticeable in/out play in the pinion flange. So i...
What i should've done was measure the preload before taking it apart, then get it back to that number.
But since i don't' have a beam torque wrench anyways, I'll try it out by feel for now. From my research online it seems like I'm too loose so I'll go 1/4 turn at a time until it feels better...
So over the weekend i replaced the transfercase input shaft seal and the rear pinion seal. I marked the pinion nut and my buddy counted the threads. When reassembling everything, my buddy thought i went past my mark by 1/8-1/4 turn but i thought i was still 3/4 turn short.
After going for a...
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