Hi B-Train, I'm impressed with this platform. It's a "short" bed crew cab work truck with the STX package (with payload upgrade), big alternator, and an electronic rear locker. Not that 6' 9" is a short bed by my definition. Fit and finish is very nice, though the carpets could be higher...
Given it's a mechanical connection between shifter and transmission, my guess is yes, though I never had an issue with the 4LXX transmissions in my S10 ZR-2 or my 1995 Tahoe which went 225,000 miles before I stupidly sold it. Others would know for sure, though.
Hah! I've been the concert promoter at the Fine Arts Center since 2004. You may have interacted with my wife - she was in the Bursar's Office for 27 years before retiring. Small world...
Well shit... Never thought mechanical; figured these things were all electronic everything. My tech director told me the same thing. I'm kinda kicking myself, kinda not right now. I'm pretty much an indentured servant at UT Chattanooga for the next few years.
:D
i guess this is hi and bye but now that I have a moment (we came home from our 8-week western trip to find a bunch of stuff, including the HVAC, blown out after a downed transformer caused a massive power surge in our neighborhood) - I have a question.
We left with a 2011 Suburban 2500, we came...
Yes, glad you got home okay. I didn't when our 1500 Suburban's 6L80 failed up in Kentucky on a business trip/vacation. Luckily a friend could tow our trailer home and I could wait at the state park lodge until a tow service could get the truck back to Chattanooga for repairs. I'm now towing with...
FWIW, just installed a pair of these at 206,000 in the Suburban before launching off on a two-month western USA trip:
https://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/
Just making sure...
Need to wash and wax the thing, trailer as well. That paint is showing it's age (5 years) but I'm just going to wait a few weeks. We're just beginning the Great Pollenation down here. Probably just wash the trailer, get it detailed and the paint restored when we get back in August. Looks like...
Cold Case aluminum radiator leaking again - this was the one which I repaired and kept when Cold Case replaced it with the one that went in my now-sold 1500 Suburban. So... the threads in the Tahoe section have convinced me to go with a Denso or GM Genuine radiator this time. That said, I'd like...
Baby got new shoes - Falken A/T4W Wildpeaks in 285-70-17.
...and brake calipers, brake shoes, Brembo brake rotors, and front hubs. Found out some 285/70-17s are more 285/70-17 than others. These are in the more category - a full 33" in diameter and even with the PO's ride height adjustment I...
Interested as well. We're going out there at some point - still have to get to Nixon's and Reagan's libraries in LA. As we'll be in the vicinity, I'll be looking for photos as well as the drive.
The 2500 'Burb is officially de-jankified with the addition of new headlights to replace the one that leaked, a Dorman driver door handle that is steel reinforced so it doesn't break when this fat-ass gets in the truck, fender flares, and a skid plate underneath. Also installed a new temperature...
PO128 is what we're getting. Gonna try two new sensors tomorrow. The thermostat we put in yesterday is for 187 degrees, which would match the replacement GM so I'm going to leave it alone for now.
Of course, it threw the same code again last night and kept displaying it this morning on startup...
You're close, Mike. Found a bit of info over on the silverado/sierra forum. Seems mild (neither hot or cold) temps screw with the two coolant temp sensors (one for the gauge and one for the ECM), causing the ECM to assume a failure when it sees a delta T across the two sensors. AC/Delco or GM...
Well here's a new one. Got a notice in the DIC that the engine is hot and AC is turned off. The temp gauge goes to zero. Now I'm driving in 60 degree temps and not using AC. There's no indication the engine is actually hot - anti-freeze is full, no discernible leaks. Parked the truck at work...
Here's an out-of-the-box idea - check your parking brake pads. I had a chirping/clicking noise coming from down under - chirping when the windows were down, clicking with the windows up. Turned out my parking brake pads had completely disintegrated, coming off the backing metal. One side fell...
And you thought the government was inefficient...
A set of the stock-looking fender flares from Real Truck to keep the rust on the rear wheel wells from spreading (hopefully). Evansville, Indiana to Chattanooga, TN
Finally got the fluids in the diffs and transfer case changed out. Leaking pinion on rear diff may not have been leaking - some dummy overfilled it previously. Filled to level and we'll see if it continues to leak. Rear Timbren bumps/auxiliary springs inserted where old bump stops had rotted...
Oil change and new parking brake shoes on the 2500. Driver side liner had separated from the metal, which explains the click-click-clicking I've been listening to for the last two weeks. Diff and transfer case fluids week after next - no time next week.
I'd be curious to know what you've been reading but the only reason I know NOT to level is if you're towing, which you say you aren't. If it was me, I'd level away but with the 5100s, especially if you can exchange. Probably less expensive than 4600s and spacers.
Music to my ears. Making me feel better and better about my new 2013 2500 every second I'm reading this. I'll be pulling less trailer than that next year when running the Oregon Trail and going up through the Canadian Rockies even if we upsize to a Lance 2075.
I'd be all about a grab handle on the driver side A-pillar. With a mostly-numb left foot, even using the running board is an adventure. I can see how the handle broke, just don't like it.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.