The baer kit is a larger rotor, so some slightly increased stopping power, not a lot but it is noticeable. You can use any premium ceramic pads for low or virtually no dust.
DL3 are heated, the only variance on DL3's is if they have blind spot or not, in which case the label would say so and it would show on the mirror glass.
and unless you have all the associated wiring, modules and programming then blind spot wouldn't work anyway.
DL3 are power, power fold, puddle...
to reach the wire at the plug I use a set of long angled pliers like these, sold at harbor frieght also
there are some out there with a loop on the tip so you don't pinch the wire, but I usually do plugs and wires at the same time so if it tears no biggie...
i adapt a spark plug socket down 1/4' then use a swivel head ratchet like this one and a breaker bar over that and easy peasy
the swivel head allows just the right angle for clearance...
ya I searched the wrong one
should look like this then and then i would just use black tape as mentioned, tape will likely be the easiest, otherwise probably have to add washers to the lower part as well as longer bolts
maybe post up a picture, I'm guessing not a lot of members are using a blendmount, there a few out there though.
looks like they are out stock anyway so you might have to just make it work
this is what the 23 mount looks like
it can be repaired at ANY gm dealer nationwide, but getting it back home after the repair is on you. meaning you will have to go pick it up be it a week later or a month later
you might get lucky and get it repaired in a couple days, I believe the current procedure is to replace the whole side...
you could try a motorola ma1 that eliminates "update issue's" and works pretty great.
it converts a wired connection to wireless, so I know you have wireless already but if it is giving you problems beyond your control the ma1 is a fix and a workaround.
so unless you are also having wired...
you stated " the top-screw threads were spread too far apart"
now it's something different.....
so if the angle is not right then you could probably get away with using something thinner than the spacer like a piece of trimmed rubber, electrical tape, etc cut to fit.
basically anything that...
i'm pretty sure a little low on oil is not going to affect anything otherwise the low oil level tolerance would be much less
and the warning comes up so it's not trying to suck in air instead of oil based on a minimum established during engine development.
I wouldn't say this makes it "ok" to...
you were most likley on the very edge of a low oil warning, typically that is 2qt's low
I would say you are fine. If it is of grave cocern take a sample when you change it and send it to blackstone labs.
ya that lube is not cheap, not the good stuff anyway, I bought some last year this was like $50
the small 15ml bottle is $25 this 2oz bottle is like 4 of those
this is the connector I am talking about, it sits on top of the shock rod
the black piece is the locking tab, you pull that off then the spring can be released by pushing it in.
those front shock connectors are tricky, if you can pull it off by hand then it is not connected properly. it has to be connected with the lock tab open then close the lock tab.
if you have a tech2 you can monitor the shock live data while driving.
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