I have used mine all different angles, stuck it up thru the hood so I could see the pressure while driving, had it on the engine or whatever angle so I could see it from the drivers seat.
mine had started to do that years ago, so I took a razor knife and carved a crescent moon shape on the engine cover where the cable passed under it, that way it can't rub on it.
you'll want to replace that one since the wire is exposed already
I have had the $20 one for years, granted it doesn't get shop use but it works when needed. it does need to be on tight to get the valve depressed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/267620687307
my guess is something in the maf harness, I don't know
maybe a take a meter and probe the harness
get a helper to wiggle it around while the engine is ran
what does the maf read with a scanner?
installed a new oem 220amp alternator p/n 84143541
the large case alternators always "look" bigger but they bolt right in the same (the mount is the exact same size)
if you ever go to install a new alternator you may find they are snug and will not just come out nor will the new one just slide...
weird I do have a amazon business account but I have never seen that much price gap before versus regular price
this should be the same part for $48...
I did not read every thing but those codes all pretty much match up perfectly with this tsb for the transmission harness
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10043829-6448.pdf
logic to me dictates that if the code is lost communication with ecm, then perhaps the problem is the ecm and you do not indicate that this was replaced.
a scanner is going to help but it will only do so much, if everything else is good and the same problem keeps occurring.....
another used ecm...
missed that part....
in that case verify fuel pressure for beginners, regardless if the pump or anything else is "new"
fuel+spark+air
make sure the power/ground is good as well.
just a matter of troubleshooting the problem
junkyard/auto dismantler, find a good used one that's your best bet.
rebuilt ones are hit-n-miss
just my opinion, there are tons of these out there for parts across the country, most yards give you 30 days warranty if it doesn't leak your golden
also you need to "define" no start
1. no start-starter does not engage at all (completely dead)
2. no start-but you can hear a click noise or click/click/click only
3. no start /starter is working and engine will not run
4. no start /starter is working engine starts for a second and dies
I put the hummer mounts on mine both sides broke and spilled the acid, there like triple the price now, in the past they have gone up/down like oil but last time I checked they were still like $247
i'm just givin ya a hard time lol. I have too many tickets I can't drive that fast all the time. I did want to see how fast it "could" go, still had a smidge more but ran up on a cop
who happened to be the only one on the road and surprisingly let me go without a ticket...
I know compressed air is popular but I would try some thin weed trimmer line and clear the line that way. If it will feed thru. I would suspect there is still some blockage.
new chrome trim piece that clips on the hood of the yukon, $36 on Amazon. By some coincidence it is the same exact part I put on it probably 6 years ago that I probably found on ebay. It's not worth paying $150 for a oem one they get chipped up eventually no matter who made it...
looks like the inner race is torn, have fun with that...
if you can find a small crow bar then you can probably get it out, wedge the tip in and then pound it out
beware the rear abs sensor ring is just behind there, don't mess that up...
you can't (or shouldn't rather) load that much weight on the seats, the seat back when folded flat is just cardboard with cloth/pleather over it.
if you have the seats folded up or out of the back then it's a standard 1500 weight wise.
a tarp works.
probably wise to either fix the pickup (again)...
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