OK so I got the sensor replaced and cleaned the filter under it. Took the intake manifold off but there really wasn't much oil it it. It and the throttle body were just dirty.
Thanks for all the advice.
I have big hands too so it sounds like I'm going to be taking the plenum off. Itll probably be good to clean it out and thoroughly clean the throttle body etc. I'm pretty sure there will be some oil in there.
Thanks man. The Moog Springs are definitely stiffer than stock in the rear but it feels more planted. I don't think the preload on the front struts has effected ride quality much. It rides so much better than the broken autoride did. There is a lot less body roll in corners too.
I might try that if I can get it to match the right angle on the arm coming off the sensor. My compressor is burnt out anyway so it never runs. If I can get away without pulling the fuses I probably wont.
I wish I didn't have autoride either. It's been nothing but a pain.
That all makes sense. These trucks are really a pain in the ass. I'll get some readings and figure it out.
Part of me wants to just disconnect the height Rods from the hubs and glue them in place on the sensor so it will always be at the right "height"
OK so after driving around some today after disconnecting the ride height sensors, I had the service suspension light come back on. I haven't pulled any fuses for the suspension yet.
Any ideas?
I appreciate the advice. I'm not looking forward to this but It beats paying a shop hundreds to do it though. I asked about it and they are convinced that the intake manifold has to come off to get to the sensor.
I just unplugged all of the ride height sensors. I turned the truck on and didn't have any lights but I'll see what happens when I drive tomorrow.
Hope you got a chance to see the resistor install post I finally made today
Yea i might look into the differential drop also. It's a good idea to get as close to stock angles as possible.
Zone makes a 2 or 3" body lift that a buddy of mine used. It makes a big difference but be prepared to see a good bit of frame especially in the wheel wells. The tow hitch in the...
I got almost 1" from clip 1 (one up from the stock first clip setting). It rides a lot better than my shot autoride shocks and handles better in curves now. I'll have to take some pics of the angles but they are acceptable and everything from aligned correctly. I am considering aftermarket...
So after just doing a bunch of work to my Tahoe, now my Oil Pressure Sensor is bad. Check engine light is on and no readout on the oil pressure gauge. After doing some research, I see a lot of conflicting info about if you have to remove the whole intake plenum to replace it or not.
Has...
I posted this in the Lifted section but I wanted to post it here as well because this is the same topic:
I recently replaced all 4 of my autoride shocks with Bilstein 5100 shocks. To turn off the "ServiceSuspension" DIC message, I installed a resistor on each of the wires that used to connect...
I recently replaced all 4 of my autoride shocks with Bilstein 5100 shocks. To turn off the "Service Suspension" DIC message, I installed a resistor on each of the wires that used to connect to the Autoride shocks.
The resistors are: 3.9 Ohm 25 Watt 5% wire wound. I bought these on Amazon...
I just did the 5100s on top of a RC 2" front level. I also did Moog Springs and have a 1" rear spacer. My front 5100 struts are set on the first clip level up from stock.
Now that I actually took measurements, I'm kind of worried I might need to do UCAs or drop the 5100's back to the "stock height". Everything aligned to what looks like spec but my stock measurements were something like 36 1/2" front and 38" rear. I do feel like I'm cutting it close on the...
Thats what im thinking too. I definitely got an extra inch out of the 5100's and an extra inch from the Moog springs in the back too. Everything aligned perfectly though. No extreme angles and it rides like stock. I might go with a 1/2" hubcentric spacer for the wheels or maybe deeper offset...
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