I'm not sure how or if this is causing the other issues, the backfire/misfire, the delayed crank. Unless it would leak coolant into the cyl and it was enough that it was trying to compress it rather than burn it and the delayed crank was it trying to turn over with coolant in the cyl and was...
To clarify @iamdub , I pulled the driver side first, 1/3/5/7 and all clear, no issues. So I moved to the passenger side the 2/4/6/8 bank. I pulled cyl 2 first and thats where I got coolant from, only from cyl 2, nothing from 4/6/8. Not from the side opened twice. Sorry for the confusion
So to @exp500 the tach did do that and I didn't know the cause just thought a wonky ecu, when I did the AFM delete I smushed the CPS and replaced it and it didn't do it after that.
@iamdub yesterday I pulled all 4 terminals off and the passenger side battery had corrosion under the lugs, but...
Tac does drop and fluctuate with the idle, it is representative of the actual idle and matches my torque pro. Vam position sensor is a month old and also did a cam relearn on it aswell after replacement. I will try out the brake cleaner, just spray some on the Intake while it is running? And for...
@PNW VietVet I think I am dealing with two seperate issues at the same time, The ongoing backfire and lack of power and 351/3/5/7 faults, and now this weird hesitation to turn over that just started happening. I am unsure if one is causing the other, or just happening at the same time.
So waiting for a intake to get here, and still considering that this somehow could be electrical aswell. Checked all my grounds on the coils and for chassis ground read 11.4 on cyl 1 and 10.7 on 3/5/7, for PCM ground they all 4 read at 12.04 volts. Checked Ohms on the chassis ground at 80ish...
Real world is this something that can be yarded or is it best bought new? Should I get other new stuff with it or just the plastic manifold and switch everything over with it?
I did torque to in-lbs, and followed the torque specs and pattern shown on the jegs website.
I did break the plastic gasket, both of them actually, but I very well could have broken the manifold too. It could be cracked near the driver side cathedrals and be the reason why it's only affecting...
So its back at it. I get in the truck this afternoon and it doesn't start, it didn't do anything. I turned the key to on at first and let it go through the cycle, just a force of habit is all, and then I turn to start and everything goes off. No clicking, just all off. I turn the key back off...
I have a OBD2 reader and the torque pro app right now. so FT 1 and 2 are in constant fluctuation, there is no steady number reading. bank 1 floats in -0.5 to -1.5 at idle and bank 2 is -2.5 to -3.5 at idle but at times they will zero but its for a second and then back and forth, under high idle...
Update.
So Got the Y pipe and got busy with life. When I removed the bank 1 upstream it had been cross threaded in and hard at that. Tried to remove the Y pipe and snapped the first two bolts on the driver side flange, figured at this rate I might as well take it to the local exhaust shop. Good...
When you say HD springs do you mean the factory HD/4wd springs? It looks like it sits higher but maybe mine sits that high. Or maybe that's where I would be with brand new springs
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