Tie Rods Toast?

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ATIII

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So I'm getting pops on turns and started looking under the truck and saw this. I'm pretty sure they aren't supposed to be that stretched or turned like they are.

Come on Suspension Guru's.
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sumo

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Looks can be deciving. Shake the wheel side to side. Can you feel movement in he inner or outter tie rods? Or if you stick a pry bar under it and push up, is there play? Wheels off the ground when checking.
 
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ATIII

ATIII

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Looks can be deciving. Shake the wheel side to side. Can you feel movement in he inner or outter tie rods? Or if you stick a pry bar under it and push up, is there play? Wheels off the ground when checking.
Stuck a 2x4 under the tire and it sorta has a hint of play up and down, but the side to side it moves the entire center link, so it's not "tight" there.


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sumo

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Under the tire and play up and down sounds more like lower ball joints.
 
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ATIII

ATIII

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Under the tire and play up and down sounds more like lower ball joints.
Yeah I figured those were shot already, all cracked. The uppers are really bad but don't have the 550 for the Cognito UCA's yet. Plan on doing the Tie rods with the big ass Rare parts ones, just wondering if it is time. I lifted exactly a year ago.


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Rocket Man

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If you're lifted, then it depends on how you did the lift that determines how those tie rods should look. But like mentioned earlier, looking isn't a way to check them. And if you're doing UCA's, it wouldn't make sense to do the tie rods first and have to do 2 alignments anyway. Just do it all at once, along with Pitman arm, idler arm and bracket and lower ball joints.
 

whitey hoe

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My popping was from my idler and pitman arm,160,000 miles,changed them ,aligned and now drives great,quiet,and no swaying back and forth going down the highway .Spend the extra few bucks for the heavy duty ones also.My friend has went through 2 ea of the cheap eBay ones and lots of hrs to change them,fyi
 
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ATIII

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My popping was from my idler and pitman arm,160,000 miles,changed them ,aligned and now drives great,quiet,and no swaying back and forth going down the highway .Spend the extra few bucks for the heavy duty ones also.My friend has went through 2 ea of the cheap eBay ones and lots of hrs to change them,fyi
Moogs ok, or Rare Parts?


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Rocket Man

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I used all Moog on mine. UCA's, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, Pitman arm, idler arm and idler arm bracket. Then I installed a KYB steering stabilizer. Drives like it's on rails now, even with my 26's.
 

BigDaddy13440

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Moogs are great

Just ordered upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tire rods, new pitman arm and idler arms, along with the idler arm bracket and upper and lower ball joints from RockAuto.
Didn't go with the moogs, went with the MevoTec line they have. Looks pretty beefy, and they have a lifetime warranty on their Supreme and Terrain series of parts.

Arrived today, dropping it off at the shop tomorrow for a Saturday install. Probably going to run me at least $600 in labor :chair:
 

Rocket Man

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Just ordered upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tire rods, new pitman arm and idler arms, along with the idler arm bracket and upper and lower ball joints from RockAuto.
Didn't go with the moogs, went with the MevoTec line they have. Looks pretty beefy, and they have a lifetime warranty on their Supreme and Terrain series of parts.

Arrived today, dropping it off at the shop tomorrow for a Saturday install. Probably going to run me at least $600 in labor :chair:
Why did you go with Mevotec? I've never heard of them. Moog also has a lifetime warranty and although they're a bit more expensive than the Mevotec, like you said you're paying a lot in labor. You don't want to pay that twice if parts go bad. Warranty doesn't cover labor.
 

BigDaddy13440

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Why did you go with Mevotec? I've never heard of them. Moog also has a lifetime warranty and although they're a bit more expensive than the Mevotec, like you said you're paying a lot in labor. You don't want to pay that twice if parts go bad. Warranty doesn't cover labor.

Didn't matter..... up it went on the lift, and the tech pulled and pried at EVERYTHING..... not a bit of play, anywhere.... all the parts are going back to RockAuto... cost me $38 is shipping both ways, but saved me about $1100 in parts and labor.
 

Rocket Man

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Didn't matter..... up it went on the lift, and the tech pulled and pried at EVERYTHING..... not a bit of play, anywhere.... all the parts are going back to RockAuto... cost me $38 is shipping both ways, but saved me about $1100 in parts and labor.
Curious...why did you order all those parts before checking to see if you needed them?
 

BigDaddy13440

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Curious...why did you order all those parts before checking to see if you needed them?

From previous experience.

Usually, when the tie rods and pitman and idler arms are bad, the ball joints are soon to follow. At least that's what happened with my '96 Tahoe. And I figured, if they've got it up on the lift, might as well get everything done all at once, or at least have everything they could possibly need.

I thought I had a lot of play when having the truck up on my jack, but the shop said I didn't have any at all when they had it up on the lift.
 

TheAutumnWind

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My popping was from my idler and pitman arm,160,000 miles,changed them ,aligned and now drives great,quiet,and no swaying back and forth going down the highway .Spend the extra few bucks for the heavy duty ones also.My friend has went through 2 ea of the cheap eBay ones and lots of hrs to change them,fyi

Which heavy duty ones? You mean name brand rather than the cheapo off brands? I picked up MOOG and ACDelco pro stuff which i hope works well... Not planning to spend $200 more for rareparts stuff!
 

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