Rust repair -looking for some insight

[BEFE]

Hello I have a 2011 Z71 Suburban I have owned since 2012 and plan to keep it forever and ever lol. It is all stock except a bully gt to eliminate AFM and a lift level kit and some other personal items. Nothing mechanical really.

Any how it has developing a rust spot just below the fuel tank door on the drivers side. Its bubbling. Wanted to get thoughts on how to repair it.

Have the rust fixed and repainted

Or

Have the rust fixed and linex it. I have this idea of having it linex or similar commercial product. Just the lower portion of the suburban. Below the door mouldings all the way around. But what about the plastic bumpers and fender flares that come on these Z71s?

Any thoughts?

I will probably just have it painted....if I can find someone local that woll take on the work. Seems like most just want big jobs.

Anyone local to South Dakota that wants to take on the job? I usually keep it pretty clean and can post better/cleaner pics if needed but its been spring snowing here lately.

 

[petethepug]

Take it to the most expensive shop you can find. Get a free estimate. Let them educate you on do rights and (can) do wrongs in the repair of that. Don’t believe the scope of the repair? Go to another prime shop.

I can’t get a magnet on it to check for prior damage / filler or pick at it to find out where the remaining good metal lies. Once the rotten metal is cut off the skin, the interior needs inspection and possible additional cancer cut out.

If you find that cool Dood willing to fix it like he had on many other trucks just like that, remember, fix it right once or get what you pay for and find out that guy really wasn’t cool.

 

[BEFE]

Thanks for the reply. I get the risk of bringing to some "dood" as opposed to an expensive shop. But why does it need to be the most expensive shop? Maybe they do crappy work but suckers bring their stuff to them.

Have any thoughts on lining the lower doors/rockers fender flares and bumpers?

 

[petethepug]

Expensive shops don’t have use the warranty on their work. Their rates and over the top thoroughness will allow you to see what a cut rate shop leaves out.

With rust resto, you get what you pay for and not knowing to pay for it lies on the customer. There’s nothing wrong with you doing the initial inspection either.

 

[B-train]

If you decide to have a shop fix it with new metal, or whatever, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting it rust proofed by yourself, or a professional, once everything is cured and dry. Sealing out moisture from the back side is the only way you're going to get longevity out of a repair like that. Moisture/salt will work their way into those cut/welded areas and have a field day with good metal to munch on........

 

[BEFE]

What can I do as far as an initial inspection? I see bubbled paint and rust underneith. I am heading to a local shop here in a bit for an estimate.

As for sealing it after reapir. I'd expect that to be done by the shop that does the repair I guess. Certainly something Ill ask.

 

[petethepug]

Find a shop that’ll tear into it with you there. Nothing better than someone giving you the option to proceed or stop.

Try to find some Yt videos of rust repair in that area to help you out.

 

[B-train]

What can I do as far as an initial inspection? I see bubbled paint and rust underneith. I am heading to a local shop here in a bit for an estimate.

As for sealing it after reapir. I'd expect that to be done by the shop that does the repair I guess. Certainly something Ill ask.

There are body access holes with plugs in them underneath that area. You might be able to see in with a bore scope and light. Also might be able to see if you remove a tail light assembly and look inside.

 

[BEFE]

I may try that. I just got a quote from a shop, unsure if its the most expensive shop but $4603.68. Basically replace the entire rear qtr. Not going to happen lol. The guy was pretty honest about it and from the others I talked to on the phone they only replace entire "skins" as well.

An entire rear qtr for some bubbles is overkill. Not sure what Ill do but its not getting a 4600$ repair.

 

[vcode]

Not to be a Debbie Downer, but I would be real curious to see what things look like under the fender flares. Any Suburban or Tahoe I've seen with rust where you have it also had bad rust in the wheel wells. You may need a full rear quarter and not even know it.....