rear bagged with pics

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pics OOO BTW, The brown that looks like rust is actually primer. Im also not quite done yet as the gas tank filller neck needs routed farther away from the bag on the drivers side. I have exhaust turn downs that need to be welded in still. There is also plenty of grinding and cleaning welds that needs to be done.
 

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probably be booted for uploading this many pics

first two in here are the cut and relocated rear crossmember. also boxed body mounts welded outside and in.

4th shot is the clearance between the gas tank and the bag, the gas tank was relocated about 1.75" forward on the frame for clearance.
 

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yep....couple more........still have more.....sorry if some are hard to grasp -- its a tight fit in there.

Also -- recently added pics are with the truck at ride height other than the measuring tape ones.

Ground to fender is about 27.25" rear of running board is 2.75".

That last pic is the power wire for the compressors into a stinger 100A circuit breaker. It is wired underneath the passenger rear seat where my 0 AWG feeds the sound system ampifiers. Sound system and air ride run off secondary charging system(dual alternators/batteries under hood.)

1st shot is drivers c-notch

2nd,3rd,4th are custom panhard mounts/gusseted to axle
 

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Max

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Looks pretty good dude, though I am a bit concerned about some of the welds on the cups overall it should ride nice and lay out pretty dope on the 2s. What size tire do you plan on running?
 
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Im going for 285/35R22. The wheels are the 2010 Denali/Hybrid 22x9 +31mm offset. Debating on having the chrome stripped and powdercoated black or just leave them alone.

Oh the lower bag plates are welded to the factory lower spring perch.(ground the spring center out of the perch). The 1.5" DOM tube was sliced down the side and actually sits on that lower perch and against the axle tube. Cant really get a good pic cuz it was welded all back together.
 

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someone asked about pics of the doors? the door wells were left alone - as the factory 4 link travels up it brings the wheel too far forward into the door jam. Instead of hacking apart the doors/door jams/etc I instead relocated the entire rear axle 1.75" towards the back of the truck. Thus, when its completely aired out the wheel sits centered in the wheel well.

Oh, with the factory 4 link, once the rear axle is at a certain level the rear driveshaft is fully plunged forward into the back of t-case rear output shaft snout(too close for comfort). Just adds to the need to bring the rear axle tube back in chassis.
 

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Oh, with the factory 4 link, once the rear axle is at a certain level the rear driveshaft is fully plunged forward into the back of t-case rear output shaft snout(too close for comfort). Just adds to the need to bring the rear axle tube back in chassis.

Hey, I bagged my rear and when I am riding at say 30-31'' fender to ground I get a honking-goose sound coming from the rear end when coming to a slow stop, only when there is no load on the drive shaft. I never get it on acceleration or during a hard stop, only when coming to a slow controlled stop. Do you think the could be a result of what you are talking about here? I am bagged with a pipe notch just like the one you put in but am running stock 4link and panhard. I will be putting in an adjustable pan hard a s soon as my buddy get's back from SEMA and has time to do it.
 

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You're 2wd right Justin? You have more shaft since there is no tcase in the 2wd trucks.
 

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