New Mechman 250 Alternator Question

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xposm1

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Apologize if this isn't in the correct spot.

I have a 2010 Chevy Tahoe LT w/ towing package. The stock alternator is on it's way out (Stock is 160A KW1). I am looking at the Mechman 250 Amp alternator (Model #8302250). If I go with this alternator, do I have to do the big 3 upgrade? or is truly a drop in with no upgrades/changes needed? also looking if anyone has used this model and what their experience has been.

Link to Alternator:
Mechman 250A Alternator



Thanks
 

Geotrash

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Apologize if this isn't in the correct spot.

I have a 2010 Chevy Tahoe LT w/ towing package. The stock alternator is on it's way out (Stock is 160A KW1). I am looking at the Mechman 250 Amp alternator (Model #8302250). If I go with this alternator, do I have to do the big 3 upgrade? or is truly a drop in with no upgrades/changes needed? also looking if anyone has used this model and what their experience has been.

Link to Alternator:
Mechman 250A Alternator



Thanks
@Doubeleive has one, I believe. The big 3 upgrade is always a good idea, but as far as I know, it's a drop-in replacement.
 

Trey Hardy

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Apologize if this isn't in the correct spot.

I have a 2010 Chevy Tahoe LT w/ towing package. The stock alternator is on it's way out (Stock is 160A KW1). I am looking at the Mechman 250 Amp alternator (Model #8302250). If I go with this alternator, do I have to do the big 3 upgrade? or is truly a drop in with no upgrades/changes needed? also looking if anyone has used this model and what their experience has been.

Link to Alternator:
Mechman 250A Alternator



Thanks
Id recommend a big 3 upgrade regardless as it’s a cheap and simple upgrade that makes a big difference imo
 
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xposm1

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Thanks for the replies.

As to the Big 3 upgrade, I read some threads going over it. My understanding is you replace the wire from the alternator to the positive battery terminal, replace the ground wire from the neg battery terminal to engine mount and then the ground wire from neg battery terminal to the frame?
Thanks again.
 

Doubeleive

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Thanks for the replies.

As to the Big 3 upgrade, I read some threads going over it. My understanding is you replace the wire from the alternator to the positive battery terminal, replace the ground wire from the neg battery terminal to engine mount and then the ground wire from neg battery terminal to the frame?
Thanks again.
yep
 

kbuskill

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The factory 220A alternator off of the newer body style is basically a direct bolt over as well and at a fraction of the cost of the Mechman.

ACDelco Alternator - 13536552​


I bought mine from Amazon back in July for $165.

Looks like the price has gone up along with everything else. It is currently listed at $200

ACDelco Alternator - 13536552 https://a.co/d/i6FcwT9

Now as far as the Big 3 upgrade, do it. It is a total waste of time to upgrade to a high output alternator and NOT upgrade the wiring.

Think of wire like pipes. The bigger the pipe, the more volume of water can flow through it. That volume is equivalent to your Amperage.

Why put an alternator that is capable of producing 200+ amps onto wires that can only carry 70 amps?
 
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Heavy

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Howdy. Same deal as zposm1, I bought a MM 250A. The new alt will only be in the vehicle for about three days (it's not my daily) before it goes to the install shop where a big4 along with the system will be installed. I noticed there is a Littlefuse 175 Mega at the battery - would it be a good idea to throw a 250A in there just to be on the safe side for the trip to the install shop? Many thanks!
 

Geotrash

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Howdy. Same deal as zposm1, I bought a MM 250A. The new alt will only be in the vehicle for about three days (it's not my daily) before it goes to the install shop where a big4 along with the system will be installed. I noticed there is a Littlefuse 175 Mega at the battery - would it be a good idea to throw a 250A in there just to be on the safe side for the trip to the install shop? Many thanks!
I wouldn't without upgrading the wiring first accordingly. Shouldn't have any problems with the 175A fuse anyway since nothing is going to draw that kind of power on a mostly stock rig.
 

Heavy

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I wouldn't without upgrading the wiring first accordingly. Shouldn't have any problems with the 175A fuse anyway since nothing is going to draw that kind of power on a mostly stock rig.
Thanks for the reply, totally makes sense and apologies for the hijacking the thread - I should know better, lol :)
 

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