Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

[makintoshnex]

I was directed here from Cadillac forum. Guys suggested me to look here for help.
Long story short.
I got vehicle November last year with 135k miles.
Got issues fixed most of them.
Like all new front end rear original shocks.
New coils, new wires,new spark plugs.
New MAF sensors.
New 12v Battery.
New front end suspension.
New rear springs.
Replaced belt + 2 engine mounts.
All new brakes and rotors.
Replaced oil in 2 diffs, gear box and transfer case, of course in engine too.
Right 1 week after that new rear diff ( old one broke). Month right after that that diff sounded again, Caddy still at AAMCO waiting for new one.
(Maybe I should dump that GM junk, and get myself a Toyota)
I already dumped like 6-7 k in it and it is still broken.
I have a random misfire and clicking noise that comes from gear box at acceleration and deceleration, so whyle Caddy is there I asked them to diagnose and give me information what's wrong with the vehicle. They said everything is fine except for the two codes which are p0562 and p0420. I don't know why, but they relate those codes to the hybrid system. And currently I'm trying to find the dealers repair book for the Cadillac Escalade Hybrid, I want to find the wiring diagram for that hybrid battery and try to dig in what's going on and where the short circuit. Unfortunately I found on the eBay just for the regular Escalade not for the hybrid one. If there is someone willing to help with information I would really appreciate it.

Also I would really appreciate with help, by recommending me what should I do with it, is it make sense to keep it???

 

[j91z28d1]

I'm a bit lost, what's going on? you keep blowing up diffs? that's not very common and while the hybrids have the smaller diff option it's the same of the non hybrids I believe. most seem to go 300k without any more than a fluid change.

the P0562 is voltage low at the transmission module inside the tranny. it's on the 12v side of things, book says tranny damage can result from not enough power to operate solenoids correctly. I wouldn't be driving around with that one.. tranny is expensive and hard to find. treat the tranny like gold, you kill it and you will be looking for that Toyota lol

list of things to check from my manaual.
loose or damaged battery terminals on the 12v battery.
loose or corroded connection at the tranny. I believe the main plug is on the driver's side. and I have heard of corrosion. pull off, inspect and clean with contact cleaner.
loose or corroded connection at the accessory power module.(apm) it's under the bottom of the inverter stack on the left side of the engine under that black hybrid cover. don't go poking around in there till you've searched how to deactivate the hybrid battery voltage. it's not as likely as people say to get zapped, these things have more safeties than you can imagine to make sure 300v is isolated from anything before powering up. but it's worth being extra safe anyways. there's a youtube video on how to pull the inverter if needed to check.

this code is most likely not the 300v hybrid system side, since to set this code it needs to see the 12 volt system side greater than 12v while the tranny module sees less than 10v for 5sec.

the P0420 is cat bank one low efficiently. search around that's a pretty common one across all ls engines. could be as simple as a rear o2 sensor bad, an exhaust leak. header bolt broken off, very common also causes the tick you mentioned. or an actual bad cat all the way to afm issues.

I don't believe either of these are 300v hybrid system related. if you're not an apple user, there's a cheap app called torque app you can get for 5$ and a 20$ USB obd port dongle. with some custom pids added, you can see and log the hybrid battery cell voltage to see if it's bad. but any real trouble shooting you will need a few good high end scanner, or a clone tech 2 and some form of shop manual software like prodamand or something else. most have monthly plan access that's not to bad. shop manuals do exist, but where to get them, I don't know. I've seen posts about them, but most of they time they are very expensive. the consumer version of online stuff for shops is usually eaiser to use, but few places less complete. especially with these trucks.


I can usually look up some wiring diagrams if you need them.

 

[j91z28d1]

..

 

[BG1988]

I was directed here from Cadillac forum. Guys suggested me to look here for help.
Long story short.
I got vehicle November last year with 135k miles.
Got issues fixed most of them.
Like all new front end rear original shocks.
New coils, new wires,new spark plugs.
New MAF sensors.
New 12v Battery.
New front end suspension.
New rear springs.
Replaced belt + 2 engine mounts.
All new brakes and rotors.
Replaced oil in 2 diffs, gear box and transfer case, of course in engine too.
Right 1 week after that new rear diff ( old one broke). Month right after that that diff sounded again, Caddy still at AAMCO waiting for new one.
(Maybe I should dump that GM junk, and get myself a Toyota)
I already dumped like 6-7 k in it and it is still broken.
I have a random misfire and clicking noise that comes from gear box at acceleration and deceleration, so whyle Caddy is there I asked them to diagnose and give me information what's wrong with the vehicle. They said everything is fine except for the two codes which are p0562 and p0420. I don't know why, but they relate those codes to the hybrid system. And currently I'm trying to find the dealers repair book for the Cadillac Escalade Hybrid, I want to find the wiring diagram for that hybrid battery and try to dig in what's going on and where the short circuit. Unfortunately I found on the eBay just for the regular Escalade not for the hybrid one. If there is someone willing to help with information I would really appreciate it.

Also I would really appreciate with help, by recommending me what should I do with it, is it make sense to keep it???

check the ground wires there is plenty of them around the SUV.... also look into backed out pins on the XLR connector TCM Transmission Connector Pigtail

don't attempt to push them in it needs to be done correctly

 

[makintoshnex]

I'm a bit lost, what's going on? you keep blowing up diffs? that's not very common and while the hybrids have the smaller diff option it's the same of the non hybrids I believe. most seem to go 300k without any more than a fluid change.

the P0562 is voltage low at the transmission module inside the tranny. it's on the 12v side of things, book says tranny damage can result from not enough power to operate solenoids correctly. I wouldn't be driving around with that one.. tranny is expensive and hard to find. treat the tranny like gold, you kill it and you will be looking for that Toyota lol

list of things to check from my manaual.
loose or damaged battery terminals on the 12v battery.
loose or corroded connection at the tranny. I believe the main plug is on the driver's side. and I have heard of corrosion. pull off, inspect and clean with contact cleaner.
loose or corroded connection at the accessory power module.(apm) it's under the bottom of the inverter stack on the left side of the engine under that black hybrid cover. don't go poking around in there till you've searched how to deactivate the hybrid battery voltage. it's not as likely as people say to get zapped, these things have more safeties than you can imagine to make sure 300v is isolated from anything before powering up. but it's worth being extra safe anyways. there's a youtube video on how to pull the inverter if needed to check.

this code is most likely not the 300v hybrid system side, since to set this code it needs to see the 12 volt system side greater than 12v while the tranny module sees less than 10v for 5sec.

the P0420 is cat bank one low efficiently. search around that's a pretty common one across all ls engines. could be as simple as a rear o2 sensor bad, an exhaust leak. header bolt broken off, very common also causes the tick you mentioned. or an actual bad cat all the way to afm issues.

I don't believe either of these are 300v hybrid system related. if you're not an apple user, there's a cheap app called torque app you can get for 5$ and a 20$ USB obd port dongle. with some custom pids added, you can see and log the hybrid battery cell voltage to see if it's bad. but any real trouble shooting you will need a few good high end scanner, or a clone tech 2 and some form of shop manual software like prodamand or something else. most have monthly plan access that's not to bad. shop manuals do exist, but where to get them, I don't know. I've seen posts about them, but most of they time they are very expensive. the consumer version of online stuff for shops is usually eaiser to use, but few places less complete. especially with these trucks.


I can usually look up some wiring diagrams if you need them.

Long story short. First diff was blown at 135,000, mi. It was replaced under the warranty I had on this vehicle which is expired by now. Company provided wrong diff with wrong reduction ratio so it blow again. Vehicle was towed by insurance company truck to their certified mechanic who managed to take apart and find out that wrong gear ratio was installed so they provided the right diff with the right ratio this time.
I definitely try to wiggle around those wires. The biggest concern for me is the random misfire p0300-00 + I got bunch of different codes since I posted this post.

 

[TollKeeper]

I wonder if its not a AFM/DOD problem.

 

[makintoshnex]

Hi, can you specifically, why it may be related to that???
Is it make sense to get diagnosed at official GM dealership??? The only thing I need to beat to keep this truck is that misfire. I tried to spray brake cleaner around gasket, engine didn't react on that. Can it be fuel pump??? And can I be fuel filter, I saw it on YouTube, but not quite sure if my vehicle has one. I wonder why but AAMCO related that misfire with hybrid system. They could not specify how. Only thing they said is that only dealer service center is allowed to do such job. They called dealership and dealership denied their request for supplying tools and part that were necessary for this job. It sounds like some ******** to me. But who knows.

 

[TollKeeper]

Checking to see if its a AFM/DOD problem is really easy... And free.

Fast forward to the 2:30 mark in this video... If you have the problem shown, either a collapsed lifter, or a AFM/DOD lifter that is frozen.

 

[j91z28d1]

Long story short. First diff was blown at 135,000, mi. It was replaced under the warranty I had on this vehicle which is expired by now. Company provided wrong diff with wrong reduction ratio so it blow again. Vehicle was towed by insurance company truck to their certified mechanic who managed to take apart and find out that wrong gear ratio was installed so they provided the right diff with the right ratio this time.
I definitely try to wiggle around those wires. The biggest concern for me is the random misfire p0300-00 + I got bunch of different codes since I posted this post.

wow that sucks they put the wrong ratio gears in.. that sounds like it would be very ******* the transfer case as well of you drove around in auto setting. in 2wd it might not have been horrible.

as for the missfire. I don't know how much you work on cars, but for the missfires treat it as if it's a normal truck. normally you start with a tune up, check the grounds, there's one on the front of the driver's cyl head that's common issue in all ls engines. also these hybrids have quick release battery terminals.. make. sure they are tight. you shouldn't be able to move them at all by hand when tight. if you can track down which cyl it is that throws the code all the time that is helpful. sadly on all these trucks the afm is worth checking out, of that checks out. then switch coils around to see if the miss fire follows it to the new cyl.

I would agree that a tranny shop is probably not the best place to troubleshoot the engine in general.

honestly the dealer is a crap shoot too. they don't know anything special about these trucks, there's a huge turn over of techs at dealers and they haven't gotten any training on these trucks since probably 2008. and even then they are mostly parts swappers and these trucks need trouble shooters. especially if it's hybrid related stuff. like the afm can't be repaired bit dealers and most shops want to sell you can engine because it's eaiser and more profits for the.
just saying the word hybrid scares most parts swapper techs. so you'll probably be better off finding a smaller shop that isn't scare to work on it and has experience with finding miss fires on ls engines to see if it's ignition related or if it's afm.


these trucks really reward diy mechanics able to work on their own stuff, but if your have to rely on a shop. they will probably bleed your wallet dry and leave you with a still broken truck.

that's a pretty common thread on these boards. dealer swaps a bunch of expensive parts, it's something completely different and the owner ends up trading it off for scrap prices 6 months later. it's a shame really.

 

[j91z28d1]

I wonder if its not a AFM/DOD problem.

it could be.. I recently had a miss in a truck, and after a bit of looking around. I found the spark plug loose, turned like an 8th of a turn. I get it grounds thru the threads, but I've worked on stuff my whole life and never seen that before.

atleast it was a easy fix. haha.

#7 is a afm cyl thou, so that would be the worst case for him.