Need advice on brake rotors

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RottsRoc

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I have a 2008 Tahoe that has a front end shimmy in steering wheel and pedal when braking on hills. Around town and on level freeway no issues. I'm looking to replace the rotors and pads (only 65k). Looking at OEM rotor and pads versus Bosch rotor and pads. I'm leaning toward the Bosch. Anyone have any opinions on either or??
thanks
 

Brian Wilson

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Brakes are important. Go performance if you have the cash and can deal with the few downsides to performance brakes. Or, go oem.
 

kbuskill

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I bought drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads for all 4 corners but haven't been home to install them yet.

I would check all your front end parts for play, it could be a suspension issue.
 

Meccanoble

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I have changed my brakes and using the heaviest duty rotors sold at your local Pep boys or Autozone or Advanced Autoparts, the carbon based ones. I have barely put 10k miles on them but they work well and I have done the same with other high performance cars. The brakes on the TAhoe look super small to begin with and warping is common on heavier cars/trucks so i definitely recommend the beefiest rotors you can get.

Two most important things these cars needs is good braking and handling.
 

jyi786

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I replaced the brakes on my 2012 Yukon Denali XL last week with the following:

Pads:
Akebono ASP-1363 front
Akebono ASP-1194 rears
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/bra...+XL+Denali+1500&autoYear=2012&autoModClar=AWD

Rotors:
Centric Plain 120 Cryo Treated rotors (front)
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/bra...+XL+Denali+1500&autoYear=2012&autoModClar=AWD

Centric Plain rotors (rear only)
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/bra...+XL+Denali+1500&autoYear=2012&autoModClar=AWD

The braking is now awesome, smooth, and completely linear. Stops on a dime too.
 

Kenny D

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Sorry for the hijack, but I figure I'd ask here instead of cluttering up the subforum. What procedure do you guys use to spread the calipers open to reinstall the new pads? I've always just used a C-Clamp but I heard that can mess with the ABS pump.
 

kbuskill

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Sorry for the hijack, but I figure I'd ask here instead of cluttering up the subforum. What procedure do you guys use to spread the calipers open to reinstall the new pads? I've always just used a C-Clamp but I heard that can mess with the ABS pump.

C-clamp... Big channel lock pliers... The proper tool... My hands.... Just go slow, kinda like your first time, it will be fine.... Lol
 

Snacky

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I was just coming on here to ask about my wobble while braking at low speeds and braking to a stop, and ask if I need new rotors. I had them shaved a while back and that fixed it for a while but the wobble is back again. I guess it's time for new ones. I don't think I want drilled/slotted.

I guess it's time to do a little homework on rotors... I'll be keeping an eye on this thread too.

Is the warping on just the fronts usually, or front and rear?
 
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Brian Wilson

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I have a huge post on brakes somewhere in this forum. But the general answer would be, even bad breaks can be good with a proper break in and great breaks will be awful with a bad break in. I have used 3k dollar brake kits and the eBay specials. Nothing g but positive reviews. As long as you break them in correctly. More important than rotors are the pads you use. Cheap pads will kill you
 

Snacky

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Thanks Brian. I had no idea that there was a break-in procedure needed. I just googled it and found some good info.

I might just be lazy and copycat the setup that jyi786 did... or something similar
 

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