Installing Beltech 2/3 kit,many extra bits needed?

[Rocket Man]

You know what they say- if there's no pictures, it didn't happen.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Agreed! The weather has been utter CRAP!! I got a break enough to get the Tahoe out to the shop without making a planter out of it (grassy yard to the shop driveway), and enough time between prepping the race car for the next day's autocross event that got rained out on us,and starting dinner that I had just enough time to throw the parts at it and send I'd down the road.

By the time I was done, it was too dark for the photo op. Hopefully, I can get pix when I do the front links. So far, though, no complaints, and I've told my test pilot to let me know about ANY little thing that seemed out of order.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

We finally got time out in the shop. Actually, replaced the pads and rotors on the truck. When we did the drop kit install, I discovered we had about 1/8" of pad left. Sooo, I decided to just get rotors and pads, that way, I can get the rotors we have turned, and they'll be spares on the shelf for next time, which will probably be long after anyone makes rotors for these things.

Anyway, here's a picture of the Hellwig adjustable sway bar end link:



I looked things over while I was under there, and there is absolutely nothing hitting anything it's not supposed to.

I also got some shorter front end sway bar links, but it appears that I misread where Energy Suspension measures the length of their links. It's the length of the spacer tube, NOT the distance between the sway bar and LCA. So, the shorter end links I ordered are exactly 1/8" shorter than the OEM replacements!! Time to order yet another set of replacements!

Anyway, brakes done, suspension drop done, now on to the ball joints.

 

[Rocket Man]

You're probably not lowered enough to be hitting things, but if you do it will be on the passenger side( swaybar-to-panhard bar mount). In my first picture here, you can see the DJM offset link. Notice how far it moves the swaybar to the right. In the next 2 pictures you can see how close my swaybar is to the mount for the panhard bar. If the suspension moves up and the swaybar wasn't relocated to the right. you can see it would be hitting.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Yep, and if there is a situation where the suspension gets compressed a LOT, probably to the point the diff is hitting the frame, we'd probably see some marks on the sway bar from the panhard at mount. That's not happening, unless we start offroading the thing,which isn't going to happen on purpose.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yep, and if there is a situation where the suspension gets compressed a LOT, probably to the point the diff is hitting the frame, we'd probably see some marks on the sway bar from the panhard at mount. That's not happening, unless we start offroading the thing,which isn't going to happen on purpose.

Ummmm...no. I'm only lowered 3" in the rear and if my sway bar wasn't moved 1 1/2 " to the right, it would hit the panhard bar mount in normal driving over bumps or hard cornering. It's only 1/2" to the right and 1/2" under it after the relocation. That's with it being parallel to the ground, which is where it needs to be to work correctly. With the stock endlinks, it was angled way down which gave it clearance but it didn't work right.

Edit: if you look at my pictures and imagine the sway bar 1 1/2" to the left, you'll see what I'm talking about. If you're 3" lowered and your sway bar is parallel to the ground, but not moved to the right, I don't see how you're avoiding contact.

 

[NORCAL SS]

that swaybar link (non djm one) to long you can see how the swaybar still hangs way down.

 

[Rocket Man]

that swaybar link (non djm one) to long you can see how the swaybar still hangs way down.

That's what I was thinking, and if it was shortened like it needs to be he'll probably be hitting.

 

[NORCAL SS]

Yup would hit. Djm endlinks are.beefy

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I'm less than 10-deg. No hit. Thank you.