Fuel type/ Maintenace Questions

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jghjhj75

jghjhj75

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About to do coolant flush, manual says 18.3 quarts for mine. Most originals posts are showing 16 quarts for theirs, now which is it. It’s a PPV so is that bigger coolant capacity. Need to know for proper coolant mixture. I got close to 10 quarts out now.
 

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About to do coolant flush, manual says 18.3 quarts for mine. Most originals posts are showing 16 quarts for theirs, now which is it. It’s a PPV so is that bigger coolant capacity. Need to know for proper coolant mixture. I got close to 10 quarts out now.

I think mine calls for 17 quarts. That two quarts will make no difference at all. You could put 16 in it and pour another two quarts of coolant concentrate or two of distilled water and it'll still be close enough. It doesn't have to be precisely 50/50. Actually, I like to lean a little more towards straight water as it cools better. Freezing isn't much of a concern where I live. That 50/50 rule is generic for the entire country, for all climates.

If your OCD requires it to be right at 50/50, mix it in a third jug then pour it in as needed until full. Also, you'll never get all of the "old" stuff out so it's not gonna take the full specified capacity.
 
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Updates: All fluids changed, have not ran it for 10 min and I look to see oil residue once again where I wiped it clean.


Seems it’s coming from the oil cooler gasket. I saw other threads talking about replacing it and changing the block of plate or something. Dont know if that’s the only place oil is leaking from, process of eliminating. It’s seems to run underneath the oil pan in the crack where it connects to the transmission. Pics below.
C92E9126-228A-4219-B801-A3555AAEFB92.jpeg
 

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iamdub

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Updates: All fluids changed, have not ran it for 10 min and I look to see oil residue once again where I wiped it clean.


Seems it’s coming from the oil cooler gasket. I saw other threads talking about replacing it and changing the block of plate or something. Dont know if that’s the only place oil is leaking from, process of eliminating. It’s seems to run underneath the oil pan in the crack where it connects to the transmission. Pics below.
View attachment 410428


Super common leak point. You don't have a block-off, you have the cooler installed. Models without the oil cooler will have a block-off. Each use their own gasket and are not interchangeable. Be sure you order the correct one. At least it's an easy repair! Replace it, hit the whole area again with a cleaner and let it drip dry. Check again after some driving. Be aware that some oil could be "baking out" of the pores in the block and pan and isn't an actual leak. It could weep or wick down and collect on lateral surfaces, appearing as a slight leak. It may take a few heating and cleaning cycles to get all the oil cleaned off, assuming there are no actual leaks.
 
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Updates: All fluids changed, have not ran it for 10 min and I look to see oil residue once again where I wiped it clean.


Seems it’s coming from the oil cooler gasket. I saw other threads talking about replacing it and changing the block of plate or something. Dont know if that’s the only place oil is leaking from, process of eliminating. It’s seems to run underneath the oil pan in the crack where it connects to the transmission. Pics below.
View attachment 410428
And to add to Chris's post, which is great advice, is to use the OEM style gasket:

1696414774183.png

...instead of aftermarket designs:

1696414822476.png

The latter requires too much clamping force to seal. Gotta to be real careful with those bolts because they're small diameter, screwed into aluminum. Stripping one out will ruin your day. Ask me how I know. :(
 
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jghjhj75

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And to add to Chris's post, which is great advice, is to use the OEM style gasket:

View attachment 410444

...instead of aftermarket designs:

View attachment 410445

The latter requires too much clamping force to seal. Gotta to be real careful with those bolts because they're small diameter, screwed into aluminum. Stripping one out will ruin your day. Ask me how I know. :(
Thanks, do you know torquing specs on these bolts ?
 
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Update: flushed tranny fluid new filter and gasket install. Noticed drive shaft links were covered in oil residue as well and is leaking somewhere somehow. Any pointers on whats causing this and how severe it is. The rubber boot seems dry and fine the u links are caked however.
 

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jghjhj75

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Let’s see replaced oil pan gasket, oil cooler gasket, and oil pick up tube gasket o ring with upgraded flange kit using both bolt holes on pick up tube and well as all fluids changed oil changed 3 times in a month due to me forgetting put the drain plug back.

Well it’s runs but got some more stuff to fix based on test driving it.

Problem-
cold start oil is at 40 psi so that’s good there, then as it gets warmed up it drops and hangs around 18-19 in drive idling. in park the engine rpms are higher for some reason so oil psi is around 20. Engine rpms drop as well when the vehicle warms up.

Rough engine idling around 515 and dips sometimes to 480ish taking the oil pressure with getting as low as 16ish. It gets to 45 psi just fine with acceleration . But the idling is the main problem when it dips below 500 you can tell the difference in the vibration and the sound of the engine.

More info it’s a PPV so the trans temp never gets above 180 if that means anything but using my scan gauge I took pictures of pressures that might help. Seems something’s is off, any input maybe idle value change.
 

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