AFM delete kit 13 Yukon Denali L94

[Hashiriya]

Hello all! I just purchased a 13 Yukon Denali with 120k on the clock. I am trying to do a AFM delete since I just found out about the system being prone to failing. I apologize if some of these question have been answered already, I’m super new to GM products, so coming from the JDM Honda scene doesn’t really help lol. Anyways, I want to do a AFM delete kit BUT I want to keep my vvt.

I have found a few kits online and I don’t mind getting one but I’m curious to know if it’s cheaper to piece together a kit instead ? I also don’t mind putting a kit together, but I’m just not knowledgeable enough yet on what Ls motor parts are interchangeable. I heard somewhere that “ls7 solid rollers, and an ls7 cam” works on these L94’s?

Also want to point out that I plan on supercharging the L94 with a LSA (correct me if wording it incorrectly) and since I’ll have the engine out, any advice on what to replace with what would be greatly appreciated. I don’t plan on going super crazy in power since it’ll be my weekend family vehicle. For reference on the lsa build that im interested in doing here is the link

Also want to mention that I will be gettin HPtuners to disable the system first to get a bit of breathing room. I know this isn’t a permanent fix and will still be deleting AFM.

As stated above any and all advice/help would be greatly appreciated. Coming from the Honda scene I’m a lot out of my comfort zone, but I’m willing to learn. Thanks again guys!!

Ps feel free to ask me questions.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Starting with the HP tuner and soft deleting AFM is a great start while you build the rest of your AFM delete kit.

I recommend getting a texas speed AFM delete kit and using as many of their parts as you can, because the parts they include in their kits are legit quality, and then just ordering whatever you need separately. For example, I didn’t like their cam options so I got everything I needed from texas speed and ordered my cam and oil pump separately from GM direct or Rock Auto.

This is a general recommendation and others with more experience with that engine will chime in later.

 

[Sam Harris]

Agree with @Dustin Jackson. Keep in mind though, I haven’t used that kit, as my Yukon is the previous generation. However, I would definitely vouch for their part’s quality!

Where are you located? I’m in Texas, and also a Honda person. Just looking into doing a k swap on my EK if I can afford it. Lol.

Oh yeah, and welcome, from Texas!

 

[Miami-Dade]

Welcome from Miami Beach!

Thanks for posting the video!

 

[Geotrash]

Hello all! I just purchased a 13 Yukon Denali with 120k on the clock. I am trying to do a AFM delete since I just found out about the system being prone to failing. I apologize if some of these question have been answered already, I’m super new to GM products, so coming from the JDM Honda scene doesn’t really help lol. Anyways, I want to do a AFM delete kit BUT I want to keep my vvt.

I have found a few kits online and I don’t mind getting one but I’m curious to know if it’s cheaper to piece together a kit instead ? I also don’t mind putting a kit together, but I’m just not knowledgeable enough yet on what Ls motor parts are interchangeable. I heard somewhere that “ls7 solid rollers, and an ls7 cam” works on these L94’s?

Also want to point out that I plan on supercharging the L94 with a LSA (correct me if wording it incorrectly) and since I’ll have the engine out, any advice on what to replace with what would be greatly appreciated. I don’t plan on going super crazy in power since it’ll be my weekend family vehicle. For reference on the lsa build that im interested in doing here is the link

Also want to mention that I will be gettin HPtuners to disable the system first to get a bit of breathing room. I know this isn’t a permanent fix and will still be deleting AFM.

As stated above any and all advice/help would be greatly appreciated. Coming from the Honda scene I’m a lot out of my comfort zone, but I’m willing to learn. Thanks again guys!!

Ps feel free to ask me questions.

I went a little different route for my cam swap, preferring to drop the VVT. I've found that there are 2 kinds of cam swap people: those who think VVT is worth keeping, and those who think it will eventually cause more problems than it's worth. I'm in the latter camp but have no quarrel with those in the former camp. I tow a lot and wanted reliability/durability above all. And I haven't missed the VVT down low at all. I have a 2007 with the factory cam that I often drive back to back with the 2012, and the 2012 with a Cam Motion Stage 2 truck cam is a beast by comparison.

For what it's worth, I only have 2 things that I consider absolutes though: 1/ Get OEM lifter trays only, and 2/ Get a cam designed specifically for the 6.2 - not one that's merely compatible with it. There's a significant difference between compatible with it and *optimized* for it. The flow dynamics of the 6.2 are significantly different than the 5.3 and lots of cam swap kits don't make a distinction.

I ran a BTR stage 2 tuck cam that was compatible with the 6.2 for a while and then went to a Cam Motion stage 2 designed for the 6.2. No comparison in towing performance.

2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread

I love that Cam Motion measures each cam after grinding and finishing. Here's the cam card. Blub blub blub...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[j91z28d1]

for what I've researched, I'd go with a Magnuson supercharger kit over the lsa.

 

[dkad260]

Hello all! I just purchased a 13 Yukon Denali with 120k on the clock. I am trying to do a AFM delete since I just found out about the system being prone to failing.

Congrats on the purchase!

Well, fwiw, and I hope I don't jinx you, but I was thinking the same when I was in the hunt for mine.

It seems that GM improved the AFM/DOD system after 2010.or 2010.5. To what extent, I'm not exactly sure but keeping a religious OCI of synthetic should treat you well.

I personally stick to 5K intervals, but no more than 6K. I bought my 2012 with 92K miles and it now has 120K, knock on glass, save my a$$, but has been working without issues.

 

[Geotrash]

It seems that GM improved the AFM/DOD system after 2010.or 2010.5. To what extent, I'm not exactly sure but keeping a religious OCI of synthetic should treat you well.

I believe the changes were primarily to the VLOM. The lifters are the same.

 

[Sam Harris]

for what I've researched, I'd go with a Magnuson supercharger kit over the lsa.

Other than potential increased performance (and cost), what led you to this conclusion?

 

[Hashiriya]

Starting with the HP tuner and soft deleting AFM is a great start while you build the rest of your AFM delete kit.

I recommend getting a texas speed AFM delete kit and using as many of their parts as you can, because the parts they include in their kits are legit quality, and then just ordering whatever you need separately. For example, I didn’t like their cam options so I got everything I needed from texas speed and ordered my cam and oil pump separately from GM direct or Rock Auto.

This is a general recommendation and others with more experience with that engine will chime in later.

Yeah I figured that could buy me some time.

Starting with the HP tuner and soft deleting AFM is a great start while you build the rest of your AFM delete kit.

I recommend getting a texas speed AFM delete kit and using as many of their parts as you can, because the parts they include in their kits are legit quality, and then just ordering whatever you need separately. For example, I didn’t like their cam options so I got everything I needed from texas speed and ordered my cam and oil pump separately from GM direct or Rock Auto.

This is a general recommendation and others with more experience with that engine will chime in later.

yeah I figured the soft delete could buy me some time but it’s definitely getting deleted.

I will look into that kit. Is there anything other than the cam that’s I shouldn’t get from them?