99 Tahoe second opinion for starter

[rpm66]

Hoping someone can help me out here, need a second, third or fourth opinion.

I have a 99 Tahoe 2 dr. The other day I turned the key and nothing, I tried a few times and then it started right up. My battery is pretty new, maybe 6 months old.

This morning nothing, plenty of power but she wont crank over at all. I was (and still am) thinking the starter. Climbed under the Tahoe, and was prepared to hammer the crap out of it, when the key is turned on the shaft moves out of the starter, I can hear it. But it won’t spin. I jumped it a little later and it cranked right up. I am thinking the extra voltage helped.

I am planning to pull the starter in the morning and replacing it but then thought it would be good to get a second opinion. You guys have been great help in the past.

Rodger

 

[bigfootchiro]

Sounds like you’re doing the right things. If it’s not turning, but does when you jump it, it’s probably binding up. At least that’s what I’m thinking

 

[drakon543]

when i bought my 97 the starter that was in it would start the truck if the engine was still cool. if i had already driven it i would either have to let it cool or keep trying until it would go. i replaced the starter with the standard oem starter and had the same issue after about 6 months. ive since swapped in a gear reduction starter and it starts faster and every time regardless of anything else.

 

[dnt1010]

Pull the wire connector off the AC compressor clutch. Happened to me a few years back on a 97 GM truck. I crawled under it and replaced the starter in the parking lot of my local walmart. Still did the same thing. Pulled the connector and clutch released and it started right up. Got me cussing pretty good LOL.

 

[iCajun]

when the key is turned the shaft moves out of the starter ... But it won’t spin.
It has been many years since I've had one do this. In my case the main contacts in the starter solenoid were burned up. I doubt you can buy a solenoid for a starter now, or even take one apart. Assuming you replace the whole starter, my last couple were gear reduction and I like them so far. They don't have the old Chrysler starter whine.

 

[rpm66]

I replaced the starter and all is good. Thanks for everyone's comments. Always helps to hear someone else's perspective.
Rodger

 

[Tex99Tahoe]

There's a lot of posts in here of similar situation. Battery good, starter good, but no start. Couple of folks have mentioned the battery "side post spacer". That's exactly what my starting problem was. The lead spacer that goes between the 2 positive cable terminals becomes squished over time, and the hidden connection in there becomes distorted and corroded. The post bolt tightens down just fine, makes you think you've got a good connection, but the bolt is simply bottomed out in the battery's threaded hole. After tightening, if you can move/twist the cable at all, it's bad. After 20 years, it's lived a good life...

 

[Sean James]

I've had issues with side post batteries as well. Tighten them down and the wires still move if twisted by hand. Obviously bolt is bottomed out and connection is not solid tight. I've retrofitted two of my trucks to top post with new wires, and can interchange batteries with my older trucks. You can add a washer (copper recommended) for side posts, but torquing down a 5/16 bolt doesn't give as much set as an older style top-post 1/2" nut and bolt.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Tighten them down and the wires still move if twisted by hand. Obviously bolt is bottomed out and connection is not solid tight.

This worked for me. I didn't need the extender but it's way better than the OEM style bolt that strips too easily. Does stick out a bit more than the OEM though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rockfo...nder-For-Double-Stacked-Terminal/123596407444