6 lug 3/4 ton?

[kyle Loosemore]

Hello I have tried to search this subject here and have come up unsuccessful I have a 93 yukon 2 door and am wondering what it all takes to do a 14 bolt rear end swap and what year truck to look for as a donor. I've heard the 2wd is narrower what's the easiest swap in? I know the gear ratio has to be the same (mines 3.42 gu6) but what else does the swap involve?

 

[Snowbound]

Is your 93 4wd? If it is then you have 6 lug wheels and a 14 bolt semi floater with the 9.5" ring gear may be your best bet. You can swap axles on the 10.5" ring gear 14 but it'll add to the cost. The most visual difference besides the 6 lug is the front pinion. The 10.5" will have a bolt on pinion where the 9.5" is fixed. You can find these in OBS trucks and suburbans. Heavy 1/2 ton have them but the 3/4 ton will be more common. Newer axles went to coil springs but have disc brakes.

You'll need a new set of u-bolts and a conversion u-joint. Other than that, it'll swap right in. Getting ready to put a 9.5" in my Denali.

 

[kyle Loosemore]

Yep it's 4x4. So I'm looking for a 3/4 ton 6 bolt? Some new ubolts for the bigger tubes and a conversion u joint?
What about the ubolt plates don't those have to be changed as well? Is the spring width the same?

 

[Snowbound]

U-bolt plates can be taken from donor vehicle. Or maybe get a set of u-bolt plates and flip your bolts. Instead of u-bolt going over spring, they'll go under axle with nuts up. Plenty sources out there. DIY4X.com is a good source. Sky-manufacturing.com is another. Spring perches are same width.

 

[kyle Loosemore]

U-bolt plates can be taken from donor vehicle. Or maybe get a set of u-bolt plates and flip your bolts. Instead of u-bolt going over spring, they'll go under axle with nuts up. Plenty sources out there. DIY4X.com is a good source. Sky-manufacturing.com is another. Spring perches are same width.

I'd like to retain the factory u bolts. and way they are mounted. do you or anyone know sources of factory bolts and bolt plates I can get on the cheap as opposed to chevy oem parts?

 

[kyle Loosemore]

I'd like to retain the factory u bolts. and way they are mounted. do you or anyone know sources of factory bolts and bolt plates I can get on the cheap as opposed to chevy oem parts?

Only reason I ask is because of rust...I'd rather put new bolts and plates on there and not have to worry about them being 20 years old.
And as far as the conversion joint do you know a part number or site I can source one?

 

[Snowbound]

I will get you the part number tonight. On my way to work now, I'll look it up there and get back to you.

As far as U-bolts, I would never recommend using used bolts. Once they are torqued, they should never be reused. You can get u-bolts made from any suspension shop or order them from sites I posted above. Maybe there is a sponsor on this site that has them available as well. As far as the plates, not sure if any aftermarket source will have the factory style. I can look 2mrw and see if I still have my factory plates around the garage, if I do I'll blast them and send them to you if you pay the ride. The factory plates will most likely have surface rust but I have never seen them rust so bad they couldn't be reused. I'll post back when I have part number for conversion joint.

 

[Dneel81]

NEVER reuse u bolts. the should be $10 a piece from any decent 4x4 shop worth its weight in spam. The u bolt flip is easy and it's better in the long run because the plate on top doesn't collect water and sand and crap to rust out the plates as they are on bottom. I've done a flip on my 1993 2 door and my 97 2 door. Super easy and they're easier to put in. My 1993 was eaten alive with rust and I wouldn't have been a bit surprised if they failed shortly. Replace all the hardware, it's simple cheap insurance.

Also, the conversion u joint is a weak point. If you're going to buy a SF 14 bolt, you're doing it all for nothing with a conversion u joint. Have your driveshaft modded to fit the 1350 ujoint in the 14 bolt. You'll have to have your driveshaft modified anyway as the housings and pinion girders lengths are different between the 10 bolt and the 14 bolt SF. It's a great upgrade but no good upgrade is cheap.

 

[Snowbound]

Ideally, having driveshaft modified is your best bet as Dneel81 said. But my 97 came with a conversion joint. I played hell trying to find one because parts store kept giving me the wrong joint and saying it was the only one available for my truck. Had to go to the stealership to get it. But I have a needle in a haystack as its a 97 K1500 but it was ordered as a camper special cab chassis. It was originally an extended cab but went to a company called Centurion Conversions and they extended the frame and put a full rear cab on it making it a 1/2 ton crew cab which wasn't available from the factory in 97. It's a 350/4L60/241 with a 14 bolt semi floater. Well was anyway. It had a transformation about 5 years ago.





Anyway, here's a good write up I came across describing the swap. Read thru it and all of your questions should be answered. I cannot find my old receipt with part number when I bought my u-joint. Hope this helps.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/14-bolt-sf-swap-441553/

 

[kyle Loosemore]

Thanks for the link!!! I won't need the brake conversion being I have drums in the back so that's one less step. But thanks for that info it's much appreciated!! And that's a hell of a nice truck you have!!!!!!!