2005 5.3 Ticking Journey

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

filthysuburban

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Posts
13
Reaction score
31
Location
East of seattle in the sticks
I had noticed this light tapping a few months ago, and I do mean light compared to some of the ones I heard on youtube. I thought it was the oil pickup tube o-ring (oil pressure was about 20 psi hot). I ordered a pan gasket and fel-pro oil pickup tube o-ring from rockauto and did that not very fun job. I will attach pics of the oil pan, 130,000 miles and my dad always just put dino in and followed the gauges oil change timing. A little sludge but nothing horrific, I ran a magnet through the bottom of the pan and cut the filter open. No metal in the pan and the screen on the pickup tube looked fine as well.
I get it back together and fill it with pennzoil platnium 5w-30 and an acdelco filter. Ran it for a while then noticed the ticking again, maybe about 200 miles later. Most of my trips to town and work are 15-20 miles so on a really short trip I wouldn't hear anything at all. But when I pull into the garage after a decent 45 minute drive the tap is definitely noticeable and seems to correspond with the oil pressure dropping as the oil heats up. Louder under the wheel wells than from above the hood, I could maybe record it and post a vid (not sure if a mic can pick it up) but it does sound like a light exhaust leak or lifter.
So I go back to reading, the black fel-pro one I ordered was just what rockauto had listed for my make and model. I could look up the part number but it was red in the picture, the one I recieved was black. I wondered if there was just a mix up or something, it happens. So rather than guess I ordered the melling green o-ring also from rockauto which is meant to replace the red one, and got that one in. (In hindsight I think the black one is fine) The pennzoil was definitely cleaning some stuff because it got dark in the 200 miles or so since I did the o-ring the first time. Cut the filter open again, no sludge and no metal seemed fine. Didn't take pictures of that though. Put another acdelco filter on.
The round 2 didn't seem to make much difference in the sound to me, I thought maybe the pennzoil I had might have been on the thin side or something so I went and got some oreilly's 10w-40 and drained it again. Pennzoil was much less dark this time, about the same 200-300 miles since I put it in the first time. No new filter because the last 2 I cut open were fine. Oil pressure can get about 60psi when I'm getting on the interstate and oil temp isn't up, about 25-45 psi hot depending on rpm. With the pennzoil I was about 22 psi to 38 ish hot. The first time I did the o-ring I picked up a couple psi, it idled around 20 hot before.
The 10w40 did quiet it down a fair bit, but it's still there. I read about using a long handled screwdriver to listen for the sound, and I do hear a something like a metal tap on the block. Seems lower because I can hardly hear it above the engine, but under the passenger side wheel well is where I hear it best. I know exhaust leaks are common and have tried to rule that out, but usually those are more obvious cold and go away once the metal expands. This is more the opposite and the sound travels through the block, so that's where I'm at. I'm snowed in at the moment and would like my 4x4 not out of commission again, but once I can escape I'll get a valve cover gasket and check out the rockers on the passenger side. Saw some youtube videos about worn out rockers creating lash that the lifter can't take up.
I can make the budget for a crate engine if it comes to that (or do heads and lifters ugh) but I'd really rather try to sort this one out given it's 'relatively' low mileage, also I've never swapped an engine lol. If I can't find a loose rocker maybe I'll try some fixes in a bottle idk, I wanted to document all this though because I would be way more lost if others hadn't done the same. My goal is to get it squared away so I can drive it on some longer trips and not worry about being stranded in the middle of nowhere.
I'll keep the thread updated with my findings. Let me know what you guys think!
 

Attachments

  • oil pan before1.jpg
    oil pan before1.jpg
    343.5 KB · Views: 16
  • oil pan cleaned.jpg
    oil pan cleaned.jpg
    415.8 KB · Views: 17
  • pickup tube.jpg
    pickup tube.jpg
    607.3 KB · Views: 16

strutaeng

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2023
Posts
669
Reaction score
1,307
Location
Dallas, Texas
Nice. Have you checked the exhaust manifold bolts?

Is the noise always there or intermittent? A little ticking on cold start is normal and nothing to worry about.

The good news is your oil pressure is good so I don't believe you need a complete overhaul or crate engine, which is evident by your lack of glitter on the oil pan and opening up the oil filter. Good job on that, you are on the right track.
 

Marky Dissod

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2023
Posts
1,184
Reaction score
1,535
Location
(718)-
I know exhaust leaks are common and have tried to rule that out, but usually those are more obvious cold and go away once the metal expands.
This is more the opposite and the sound travels through the block, so that's where I'm at.
Only way to definitively rule out exhaust manifold leaks making that sound is to replace the missing bolts and fix the exhaust manifold leaks.
If the bolts are missing, the leak could get worse / noisier as it warms up.

Remember that these are deep skirt blocks, acoustically different from Chevy small blocks.

Use the larger oil filter, change your oil every 3000 miles or less until you find the source of the valvetrain sound.
I think it's a valvetrain sound too, but you can't rule it out for sure until your exhaust manifold leak is fixed.

If it turns out to be a worn cam instead of lifters / pushrods / rockers, shopping for a 6.0L might be a better bang for the money.
 

15burban

Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2023
Posts
70
Reaction score
115
Location
Wisconsin
I'm new to gms but I know with the Ram hemi trucks which seem to have some problems with cam and lifters a lot of guys either run redline oil (loaded with moly) or just add lubegard biotech (also has a lot of moly but is an additive) to the oil they're using. Those two options have quieted down a lot of lifter tics. I was adding lubegard to my 6.4 ram. I didn't have any tics just wanted to hopefully prevent a problem before it started.

I know not apples to apples but lubegard is worth a shot and can be added at any time during the oil change.
 

Larryjb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2016
Posts
1,144
Reaction score
1,061
Use a stethoscope to find out where the ticking is coming from. Mine is loudest at the exhaust manifold, and barely noticeable from the valve covers. I've had this ticking for years and not actual engine troubles, so I figure it's a warped exhaust manifold (very common I hear). It's probably not worth changing engines until you rule out some of these things.
 
OP
OP
filthysuburban

filthysuburban

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Posts
13
Reaction score
31
Location
East of seattle in the sticks
Nice. Have you checked the exhaust manifold bolts?

Is the noise always there or intermittent? A little ticking on cold start is normal and nothing to worry about.

The good news is your oil pressure is good so I don't believe you need a complete overhaul or crate engine, which is evident by your lack of glitter on the oil pan and opening up the oil filter. Good job on that, you are on the right track.
I'm missing the rearmost on the passenger side and front one on driver side, and the sound is intermittent. Kinda 'misses' sometimes on the new 10w40, and I didn't hear it today when I got back. I could be focusing on it too much lol, but I used to hear it bouncing off walls in drive thrus and garage. Never was audible in the cab with the windows up.
Only way to definitively rule out exhaust manifold leaks making that sound is to replace the missing bolts and fix the exhaust manifold leaks.
If the bolts are missing, the leak could get worse / noisier as it warms up.

Remember that these are deep skirt blocks, acoustically different from Chevy small blocks.

Use the larger oil filter, change your oil every 3000 miles or less until you find the source of the valvetrain sound.
I think it's a valvetrain sound too, but you can't rule it out for sure until your exhaust manifold leak is fixed.

If it turns out to be a worn cam instead of lifters / pushrods / rockers, shopping for a 6.0L might be a better bang for the money.
Yeah, I'm just dreading those manifold bolts lol. Ones snapped way back there not sure I could even get my drill in, maybe if I'm lucky vice grips could do it. Or maybe an extractor on an electric ratchet? The torque spec in my manual says only 18 ft lbs so I wonder how seized they really could be in aluminum.
Use a stethoscope to find out where the ticking is coming from. Mine is loudest at the exhaust manifold, and barely noticeable from the valve covers. I've had this ticking for years and not actual engine troubles, so I figure it's a warped exhaust manifold (very common I hear). It's probably not worth changing engines until you rule out some of these things.
I've been using a really long screwdriver as the poor mans stethoscope but I ordered a 10$ one off ebay so I can maybe learn some more. Maybe next I'll get an oil filter wrench and quit using a serpentine belt looped through a wrench lol. I do hear it best on the passenger side head, but sound travels well through the block and I can hear it with the screwdriver on the other head too but quieter.

I did get some valve cover gaskets today and pulled the passenger side cover, I took some pics but there really isn't much to see. Started it up with the cover off and saw oil come up every rocker, flow seemed even. No audible ticking because it wasn't fully warmed up. Turned the engine over and wiggled them, passenger side is tight. But I did find another issue before I even removed the cover. Spark plug wire seems to have rotted away, just removing the bracket with the coils caused it to snap right at the boot. It just turns to dust when I pinch it, so I've ordered some acdelco wires and spark plugs. The wires are fine at the top but I guess the heat makes them brittle where they meet the plug. I never had any misfire codes logged though. Could be the ticking right there, I kinda doubt it but it will be a few days before I get these parts so we will see. I'll do the other side valve cover next and check those rockers out in the meantime.
Plugs are acdelco 41962
wires are acdelco 748HH
Valve cover gasket set with bushings: fel-pro vs50504 r-1

Also unrelated but anyone know what this tube coming out the passenger side vc is for? I have a catch can installed between the drivers side pcv and the intake (and it catches oil and water) but I didn't even realize there was this thing going to the intake. My chilton manual says nothing about removing it. Seems like the hose was rotted on it too so I'll replace that.
 

Attachments

  • rockers.jpg
    rockers.jpg
    295.7 KB · Views: 15
  • vc_before.jpg
    vc_before.jpg
    385.2 KB · Views: 13
  • vc_clean.jpg
    vc_clean.jpg
    419.8 KB · Views: 16

cjmcglaughlin

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jan 2, 2024
Posts
29
Reaction score
55
Location
Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
I'm missing the rearmost on the passenger side and front one on driver side, and the sound is intermittent. Kinda 'misses' sometimes on the new 10w40, and I didn't hear it today when I got back. I could be focusing on it too much lol, but I used to hear it bouncing off walls in drive thrus and garage. Never was audible in the cab with the windows up.

Yeah, I'm just dreading those manifold bolts lol. Ones snapped way back there not sure I could even get my drill in, maybe if I'm lucky vice grips could do it. Or maybe an extractor on an electric ratchet? The torque spec in my manual says only 18 ft lbs so I wonder how seized they really could be in aluminum.

I've been using a really long screwdriver as the poor mans stethoscope but I ordered a 10$ one off ebay so I can maybe learn some more. Maybe next I'll get an oil filter wrench and quit using a serpentine belt looped through a wrench lol. I do hear it best on the passenger side head, but sound travels well through the block and I can hear it with the screwdriver on the other head too but quieter.

I did get some valve cover gaskets today and pulled the passenger side cover, I took some pics but there really isn't much to see. Started it up with the cover off and saw oil come up every rocker, flow seemed even. No audible ticking because it wasn't fully warmed up. Turned the engine over and wiggled them, passenger side is tight. But I did find another issue before I even removed the cover. Spark plug wire seems to have rotted away, just removing the bracket with the coils caused it to snap right at the boot. It just turns to dust when I pinch it, so I've ordered some acdelco wires and spark plugs. The wires are fine at the top but I guess the heat makes them brittle where they meet the plug. I never had any misfire codes logged though. Could be the ticking right there, I kinda doubt it but it will be a few days before I get these parts so we will see. I'll do the other side valve cover next and check those rockers out in the meantime.
Plugs are acdelco 41962
wires are acdelco 748HH
Valve cover gasket set with bushings: fel-pro vs50504 r-1

Also unrelated but anyone know what this tube coming out the passenger side vc is for? I have a catch can installed between the drivers side pcv and the intake (and it catches oil and water) but I didn't even realize there was this thing going to the intake. My chilton manual says nothing about removing it. Seems like the hose was rotted on it too so I'll replace that.
As far as I know that hose is also part of the PCV system and draws in fresh air to compensate for what is sucked out by the valve on the other side (unsure if this is correct). I also have a noise from the right side of the engine only when warmed up. I put a Dorman clamp on my front manifold bolt that was broken and I think that fixed it, or at least made it quieter. But I also have a fewer other broken manifold bolts in the rear I haven’t tried to fix yet
 

nonickatall

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2022
Posts
628
Reaction score
1,135
Location
Germany
It can also be carbon deposit in the hydros. I had as well a ticking and I used one liter Diesel in the engine, short before the oil change. Bevor, i checked the oil and it was honey clear. I filled in one Liter Diesel, drove approximate ten kilometers and changed the oil. The oil was black, so a lot of carbon deposit came of.

Since then my ticking is much better and i plan to do that now before every oil change.

By the way it was very funny, when I stoped at the fuel station, opened my hood, removed the oil cap and start to fill diesel into my engine. The guy next to me looked very a astounded. I turned to him and said: it's an electric car.

His look was priceless... :gr_grin:
 
OP
OP
filthysuburban

filthysuburban

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Posts
13
Reaction score
31
Location
East of seattle in the sticks
Did the other side valve cover and checked those rockers too, all seems good. Got the stethoscope and listened around but It's so quiet on 10w40 I can't pinpoint it anywhere, I almost hear it better with my ears than the stethoscope. I think I might go for a strategic "wait and see" approach for now. If it gets louder again I have some mystery oil, seems very similar to light oil like diesel. I think switching to synthetic on a 130k mile engine might have been my mistake. It is tempting to flush it with atf or diesel just because if that doesn't do it nothing will. Gonna run this oil for about 3 thousand miles and see what happens.
I also have a noise from the right side of the engine only when warmed up. I put a Dorman clamp on my front manifold bolt that was broken and I think that fixed it, or at least made it quieter. But I also have a fewer other broken manifold bolts in the rear I haven’t tried to fix yet
It's so hard to search about ticking non-afm 5.3's lol. It's all people hearing cold piston slap for the first time or the AFM imploding. Good to know that you had something similar that was fixed with that clamp. I couldn't even find anyone saying they had an exhaust leak that didn't quiet down once their engine warmed up.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,239
Posts
1,812,630
Members
92,340
Latest member
Dustpan

Latest posts

Top