2000 Tahoe Water Pump Replacement

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dman76

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Ok, I know this is a couple months later, but I finally got around to replacing this today! It was very easy and I had no problems. I was worried about removing the fan clutch but it came off easily. I just put a big wrench on it and it broke free without even having to hold anything else. One question about putting it back on though...I just put it hand tight then tightened a little bit more with a wrench until the pulleys started moving. I imagine you don't have to get it too tight because it seems like it would be self tightening from the rotation. Is that correct? I replaced the belt and the thermostat while I was at it. All the hoses were fine. I added a little more than 3 gallons of coolant and it seems to have stabilized now so there must have just been a little left in the block. Thanks again for the help!
 

BeenChevy

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Nice work. Hand tight is ok on your fan/clutch. As a tip, I been putting a little silglide lube on the spring - 230k & 16 years later it still works perfectly. This is the same lube i use on the original brake caliper bolts and piston seals.
 
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dman76

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I read some posts about air pockets in the cooling system. How can I tell if I have one? Do i need to bleed out air somehow?
 

BeenChevy

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Take the overfill cap off (carefully if hot).. Set your heat on high and get engine up to temp and watch for bubbles in escaping in your overflow res. Add additional coolant as needed and put the cap back on the reservoir. The vortec does a decent job of self bleeding. Are you losing coolant?
 
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dman76

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No. So when I filled it initially, I added 3 gallons. Let it run for awhile up to temp then when it cooled, the tank was down just a little bit. I added maybe a pint and started it up again and drove it. When I backed up the driveway and then again when I went up a hill, I heard a little gurgling. I parked it level and let it cool and the tank was where it should be. So should I just let it idle now up to temp with the cap off to see what happens?
 

BeenChevy

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Is it reading hot? Drive it or let it idle but blast your heat. The gurgling is normal. Keep an eye on the res level of you decide to idle.. as well you can leave the cap off to inspect for burping and squeeze/prime the upper rad hose but it'll otherwise purge itself as you drive.
 
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dman76

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Is it reading hot? Drive it or let it idle but blast your heat. The gurgling is normal. Keep an eye on the res level of you decide to idle.. as well you can leave the cap off to inspect for burping and squeeze/prime the upper rad hose but it'll otherwise purge itself as you drive.

No it is not reading hot. Gauge went right up to where it was before with the old thermostat. I did put the thermostat in some hot water first to make sure it opens properly. Everything seems fine. I just want to make sure I did everything right.
 
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dman76

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I just ran it again with the cap off until it got up to temperature. Nothing seemed to happen so I just shut it down and put the cap on. Seems like it is fine.
 

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