Goldstreak2874
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P0172 P0175 and C0561 stabilitrac, both are constant on this thing and he reset fuel composition
Would you replace engine
- Thread starter Goldstreak2874
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Ok, so you mean the first two are constant and the last is in memory/history? If so I reckon that ABS/Stabilitrac lights are not on? This last code is accompanied by a symptom number, in this case we're looking for 71, 72 or 74 which tell us why.
The first two mean you're running rich. If the alcohol content was high but on pump gas that would certainly do it. But now that it has been reset this is telling us something else is amiss.
Inspect your entire intake system from the air cleaner to throttle body and all hoses for leaks. You need a way to test the MAP and MAF sensors, they should be between 19-42 and 2-6 at idle. Inspect the throttle body, air filter, too much fuel in crankcase, too much fuel pressure, leaky injectors, the evap system, fuel contamination and your O2 sensors. Use only GM OE or AC Delco Professional parts. It could also be the intake gaskets.
If you're up for tackling this yourself, get a subscription for your truck over at AllDataDIY and buy a Tech2 so you can see what the computers see.
If the engine doesn’t need replacing, why not use those funds to pay off the loan?
Goldstreak2874
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That's the goal. Right now it's in the shop having the compression checked.
raidernationmike
TYF Newbie
You can get buy not replacing the motor mounts, however if you do intend to do work on the engine, then might as well do the mounts. Mine were broke and i drove for 75k and recently replaced them when i overhauled the tranny. The rebuilt tranny should last you another 50k-100k.
PG01
Supporting Member
Yes and no, if you drive easy sure you can get by, but.....what about those time when you gotta get on or have to make a quick get away.... i dont want my motor slamming down every time i goose it... good way to break other stuff...electrical connectors, bolts (especially the notorious breaking exhaust manifold bolts) and not to mention torquing the trans, however little bit it may be, point is you are putting added stress on engine bay items that aren’t meant to be stressed that way. Not saying I haven’t driven crs/trucks with broken motor mounts just saying its extra stress on a computerized system that has known problems with grounds, fusebox corrosion...etc. my 2 cts anyway
petethepug
Michael
Your gut feeling about needing a new motor is well founded. When you’ll need it is the big question. Since, for the moment, you’ve got time on your side, it’s time to start saving, either parts for a new motor or cash for one.
If you have $4k left til PIF you’re almost in the part of ownership where you start to enjoy not making payments. The last vehicle we did a motor on had close to 300k on the OG bottom end. We were losing compr from cylinder wall wear. Over the next two years we gathered $10k worth of parts from known, reputable classified sellers and paid about $4k.
That left us with $1.1k to have it installed before it was just about ready to crap out. No gasket leaks, a hi po motor and 0 payments. If you shop for engines or parts before you need them, THAT’S when all the good stuff seems to fall in your lap. Key word here. Reputable, known sellers of parts. Enjoy the hunt!
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If you have $4k left til PIF you’re almost in the part of ownership where you start to enjoy not making payments. The last vehicle we did a motor on had close to 300k on the OG bottom end. We were losing compr from cylinder wall wear. Over the next two years we gathered $10k worth of parts from known, reputable classified sellers and paid about $4k.
That left us with $1.1k to have it installed before it was just about ready to crap out. No gasket leaks, a hi po motor and 0 payments. If you shop for engines or parts before you need them, THAT’S when all the good stuff seems to fall in your lap. Key word here. Reputable, known sellers of parts. Enjoy the hunt!
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