Windshield Wipers Trigger System Failure??

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irishcreamer

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Wondering if anyone can solve this puzzle?

Towing on the freeway last weekend and used wipers for the first time in my new to me 2009 Suburban 2500. Each of the four times I turned the wipers on within a few seconds the entire electrical system went dead and rebooted and the engine stuttered. Upon reboot the system was stable with the wipers running until they there switched off and then turned on later. Very unpleasant experience over the icy mountain pass.

Previously, I have experienced apparent dead electrical system at rest that is alleviated by wiggling the ground wires on the battery. In the case mentioned above, at no time did the apparent battery circuit break occur.

Already planning to replace new battery and all the grounds but wondering if something more is afoot??

Appreciate any insights you might provide...

Thanks,
IC
 

kbuskill

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These trucks are known to have issues with the battery cables corroding internally and causing all kinds of issues like you are describing.
 

swathdiver

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Wondering if anyone can solve this puzzle?

Towing on the freeway last weekend and used wipers for the first time in my new to me 2009 Suburban 2500. Each of the four times I turned the wipers on within a few seconds the entire electrical system went dead and rebooted and the engine stuttered. Upon reboot the system was stable with the wipers running until they there switched off and then turned on later. Very unpleasant experience over the icy mountain pass.

Previously, I have experienced apparent dead electrical system at rest that is alleviated by wiggling the ground wires on the battery. In the case mentioned above, at no time did the apparent battery circuit break occur.

Already planning to replace new battery and all the grounds but wondering if something more is afoot??

Appreciate any insights you might provide...

Thanks,
IC

A bad cell in a battery can wreak all kinds of havoc on the electrical system. As Ken mentioned and as you plan, check all the grounds and connections, especially where rust/corrosion exists. You're on the right path.
 
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irishcreamer

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Great so no one suspects the ecm?

First step replace grounds and battery.


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kbuskill

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Great so no one suspects the ecm?

First step replace grounds and battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's not just the ground, the positive cable will likely have just as much corrosion as the negative cable.

I would have the battery load tested and see if it needs to be replaced. But I would definitely replace both cables.

I built my own cables out of 2/0 marine grade shielded cable which is tinned copper and soldered my own lugs onto them and then used the marine grade heat shrink that has the adhesive inside it on the ends to seal them from the elements.

The 2/0 is probably WAY overkill considering the original cables are like 4 gauge wire but I always try to upgrade whenever possible.

By the time these cables would corrode enough to cause an issue the truck and I will probably be long gone... lol
 
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irishcreamer

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Thanks everyone. Definitely planning to replace the + / - battery cables. Unfortunately the dealerships aren't able to find the cables for dual battery with my VIN since my vehicle was OEM with single battery.

Anyone have a VIN with two factory batteries circa 2009 I could use to direct dealerships?

Alternatively, are there after market cable and engine compartment ground upgrade kits I should be considering? At this point, I would rather just replace / upgrade all the main electrical feeds.

Sorry am new here...the boat knowledge doesn't seem to apply.

Thanks!
IC
 

kbuskill

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There were two different dual battery setups available on these rigs.

One is an isolated system that uses an isolator to keep the batteries separated while the ignition switch is off.

The other is a parallel system that simply connects the batteries positive to positive and negative to negative and the batteries are always connected.

I'm not sure of the RPO codes for either system but James @swathdiver probably does.

A lot of the PPVs and SSVs have dual batteries.
 

swathdiver

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There were two different dual battery setups available on these rigs.

One is an isolated system that uses an isolator to keep the batteries separated while the ignition switch is off.

The other is a parallel system that simply connects the batteries positive to positive and negative to negative and the batteries are always connected.

I'm not sure of the RPO codes for either system but James @swathdiver probably does.

A lot of the PPVs and SSVs have dual batteries.

I'm at work at don't remember them off the top of my head but Bill probably does. @intheburbs
 

intheburbs

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Thanks everyone. Definitely planning to replace the + / - battery cables. Unfortunately the dealerships aren't able to find the cables for dual battery with my VIN since my vehicle was OEM with single battery.

Anyone have a VIN with two factory batteries circa 2009 I could use to direct dealerships?

Alternatively, are there after market cable and engine compartment ground upgrade kits I should be considering? At this point, I would rather just replace / upgrade all the main electrical feeds.

Sorry am new here...the boat knowledge doesn't seem to apply.

Thanks!
IC

Here's all the information you need, including all the part numbers. I installed dual batteries in both my trucks.

https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-diy-useful-threads-61/aux-battery-tp2-upgrade-65109/
 

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