I don't have pictures, mainly because I just don't have the time to do so. The main reason I'm posting this is to help others know what they're getting into. I had to do a lot of figuring out on my own because, although there is a lot about LED conversion, there is very little online about replacing the incandescent bulbs. Ironically, it is probably easier to convert these to LED.
1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal. (Should be done, but I know this step is often ignored.)
2) Lift up on the outside edge of the widows switch panel.
The clips may be quite tight, and may remain with the door panel instead of coming out with the switch panel. I have already squeezed the clips so they don't fit so tightly into the door panel, making the window switch panel easier to remove.
3) Disconnect the electrical harnesses.
Every DIY video I see, these seem to come out very easily. I'm either an extreme weakling, or my electrical harnesses are much tighter than everyone else's. Just don't expect them to come out as easily as you see in everyone's videos.
4) Remove the switch from the panel using a torx bit screwdriver.
5) Remove the switch caps from the switches by gently expanding the sides of the switch with a small screwdriver.
I saw one video showing to lift up on the switch cap. This may break the plastic inside the switch cap, and then your caps won't lock onto the switch anymore. Expanding the sides unlocks the clips so they just pop off without the risk of breakage.
6) Open the switch box to expose the circuit board.
7) Remove the light tunnels. This is tricky. You need to use a small to medium sized blade screwdriver to squeeze the plastic tab that hold the light tunnel to the circuit board towards its center, while lifting upwards on the tunnel.
For LED conversion, this part is discarded, so little care usually taken during its removal. I managed to remove mine without breaking it. If you're just replacing incandescent bulbs, you have to save this tunnel.
8) Using a soldering iron on medium heat, AND a solder sucker, remove the solder from the terminals. This will take some time. You will likely have to suck the solder off multiple times to remove enough solder.
9) Using a plastic pry tool, gently lift up on the circuit board. The terminals should remain with the plastic switch box. If any do come out with the board, just remove them from the board after, and reinsert them into the plastic switch box.
10) Using a solder sucker and iron, remove the solder from the bulbs, then remove the bulbs. Remove the blue cover from the bulbs.
11) Insert new bulbs and solder in place.
I've found two sizes so far:
4.5-5 mm diameter bulb, 12V, 35mA
3 mm diameter bulb, 12V, about 35mA as well.
I used wire lead, but 2 pin may work just fine as well.
My source of bulbs had these 100mA 3mm bulbs, but when measured they came to 43mA. These work just fine. I mention this only to let you know that the advertised current may not be the actual current due to mislabeling, or other reasons.
12) Replace blue covers onto the lights, replace the light tunnels.
13) Replace circuit board. If any pins did come out, make sure they are aligned and level before soldering.
14) Reattach all covers, connect back to door panel.
15) Reconnect negative battery terminal.
I learned to solder in high school, which was 30 years ago now. I'm sure my teacher would dock me marks because I had a little too much heat at times. In general, I try to use just enough heat to melt the solder so I don't burn the board.
I've seen Youtube videos showing soldering irons with big fat tips. Do yourself a favour and invest in a fine tip for your soldering iron, and make an electrical box with a plug and dimmer switch so you can adjust the heat to the soldering iron. (Or you can spend big $$$$ and buy a variable heat soldering iron).
If I had to do this again, I'd remove all the pins from the switch box, enlarge the holes a little, then solder the pins to the board. That way if I needed to replace bulbs again, I wouldn't have to do all this unsoldering again.
If you're unsure of your soldering abilities, get a switch from the wrecker and practice on it.
I hope this helps someone.
1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal. (Should be done, but I know this step is often ignored.)
2) Lift up on the outside edge of the widows switch panel.
The clips may be quite tight, and may remain with the door panel instead of coming out with the switch panel. I have already squeezed the clips so they don't fit so tightly into the door panel, making the window switch panel easier to remove.
3) Disconnect the electrical harnesses.
Every DIY video I see, these seem to come out very easily. I'm either an extreme weakling, or my electrical harnesses are much tighter than everyone else's. Just don't expect them to come out as easily as you see in everyone's videos.
4) Remove the switch from the panel using a torx bit screwdriver.
5) Remove the switch caps from the switches by gently expanding the sides of the switch with a small screwdriver.
I saw one video showing to lift up on the switch cap. This may break the plastic inside the switch cap, and then your caps won't lock onto the switch anymore. Expanding the sides unlocks the clips so they just pop off without the risk of breakage.
6) Open the switch box to expose the circuit board.
7) Remove the light tunnels. This is tricky. You need to use a small to medium sized blade screwdriver to squeeze the plastic tab that hold the light tunnel to the circuit board towards its center, while lifting upwards on the tunnel.
For LED conversion, this part is discarded, so little care usually taken during its removal. I managed to remove mine without breaking it. If you're just replacing incandescent bulbs, you have to save this tunnel.
8) Using a soldering iron on medium heat, AND a solder sucker, remove the solder from the terminals. This will take some time. You will likely have to suck the solder off multiple times to remove enough solder.
9) Using a plastic pry tool, gently lift up on the circuit board. The terminals should remain with the plastic switch box. If any do come out with the board, just remove them from the board after, and reinsert them into the plastic switch box.
10) Using a solder sucker and iron, remove the solder from the bulbs, then remove the bulbs. Remove the blue cover from the bulbs.
11) Insert new bulbs and solder in place.
I've found two sizes so far:
4.5-5 mm diameter bulb, 12V, 35mA
3 mm diameter bulb, 12V, about 35mA as well.
I used wire lead, but 2 pin may work just fine as well.
My source of bulbs had these 100mA 3mm bulbs, but when measured they came to 43mA. These work just fine. I mention this only to let you know that the advertised current may not be the actual current due to mislabeling, or other reasons.
12) Replace blue covers onto the lights, replace the light tunnels.
13) Replace circuit board. If any pins did come out, make sure they are aligned and level before soldering.
14) Reattach all covers, connect back to door panel.
15) Reconnect negative battery terminal.
I learned to solder in high school, which was 30 years ago now. I'm sure my teacher would dock me marks because I had a little too much heat at times. In general, I try to use just enough heat to melt the solder so I don't burn the board.
I've seen Youtube videos showing soldering irons with big fat tips. Do yourself a favour and invest in a fine tip for your soldering iron, and make an electrical box with a plug and dimmer switch so you can adjust the heat to the soldering iron. (Or you can spend big $$$$ and buy a variable heat soldering iron).
If I had to do this again, I'd remove all the pins from the switch box, enlarge the holes a little, then solder the pins to the board. That way if I needed to replace bulbs again, I wouldn't have to do all this unsoldering again.
If you're unsure of your soldering abilities, get a switch from the wrecker and practice on it.
I hope this helps someone.
