While I’m in there

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liquify33

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Looking at doing the intake manifold gaskets.
While I’m in there, what else should I knock out?
Is it possible to determine if my spider is upgraded beforehand?

120K miles, no issues except the coolant disappears.
 

OR VietVet

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liquify33

liquify33

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I would not hesitate one bit to replace the spider with an AC Delco unit.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8323856&cc=1353721&jsn=1000

And this:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3737430&cc=1353721&jsn=1014

I would even go so far as to replace this as well:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=87739&cc=1353721&jsn=1059

But then again, I can spend OPM, other people's money, with the best of them.
Is it as simple as pulling the throttle body off and peeking in? Can I tell through the butterfly without Revention doing that?
 

OR VietVet

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You have the throttle plate body in front and the injector body behind it. You need to push down on the top of the injector body while you pull up on the throttle body to separate. Then you see the spiders where they "clip" in the ports. Crud will be there. If you go this far replace it. I would also replace the IAC when you go in there as well.

If you are trying to picture it then just you tube the process.
 
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liquify33

liquify33

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You have the throttle plate body in front and the injector body behind it. You need to push down on the top of the injector body while you pull up on the throttle body to separate. Then you see the spiders where they "clip" in the ports. Crud will be there. If you go this far replace it. I would also replace the IAC when you go in there as well.

If you are trying to picture it then just you tube the process.

Thank for your help, I've added some things to the ever growing list. I've got some other odds and ends like the heater quick disconnect as well.
My question :is there a fairly easy way to determine stock junk spider vs upgrade BEFORE I drop $350 on a part that may already be updated and fine?

This is my daily driver so I wont have a couple days to wait and I'd MUCH rather replace (if needed) while the whole intake is off the truck for the gaskets

Thank for your help, I've added some things to the ever growing shopping list. I've got some other odds and ends like the heater quick disconnect as well.
 

OR VietVet

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Since you will not be able to even look at the spiders that close till it is apart, I would order all that we have talked about and then return what you don't use. The ones that I have tore open have always looked nasty down in there because of the age. If it looks pretty clean with the age and miles of your rig, then may be ok to take a chance but I hate tearing all the way down again if I guess wrong. Plus, as you disassemble and then if make a decision to reuse the old, just the pressures and vibrations of the disassembly can make even good components be bad components that you will not realize till the restart. If you are keeping the rig, knowing what you took care of while in there will give you piece of mind.

About 2 years ago I had a water pump leak that resulted in a new water pump, new thermo housing, new thermo, new a/c serp belt and the new primary belt, new tensioners and new idlers, new fan clutch......all because of the water pump leak.

I bought the rig about 3.5 years ago. It runs like a top and the trans performs flawlessly and all interior controls work as they should. The only interior repair has been the typical driver's leather seat tear/rip/foam/seat pan repair. I also replaced one missing radio control dial knob that was not there when I bought it. I mean it when I say it that I would not be afraid to take off on any trip to any part of the great US of A in that Tahoe.
 
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liquify33

liquify33

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Thanks @PNW VietVet for all of your help.
I will post up the list for your review if you don’t mind.
I’ve had the truck less than a year, got it for a song and agree on the reliability aspect. Even with the intake leak I’d drive anywhere and do!
One day I’ll drive up to Oregon from Houston and buy you a beer!
 

east302

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My question :is there a fairly easy way to determine stock junk spider vs upgrade BEFORE I drop $350 on a part that may already be updated and fine?

.



You may (?) be able to catch enough of a glimpse to see. The factory injectors will have black ears at the ends, the MPFI will have wire connectors visible with each injector line being wrapped in a thin rubber sleeve.



Factory:

30CC2100-B9B0-4ADF-B97E-E40E6D33143F.jpeg

MPFI:

888C9E5F-AA7D-4F39-84E7-41952E27CAD7.jpeg
 

OR VietVet

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Till the throttle bore itself is removed I can't see it but then again, I have never wanted to see it because I knew what was under there.
 

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