What did you do to your OBS GMT400 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter 96ProCompTahoe
- Start date
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Agreed.
Sam Harris
Supporting Member
X2. Those look good.
96-2D-Hoe
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This week I have:
Changed the oil and filter.
Replaced the high side port on the AC that was leaking, put a new orifice tube in, vac'd it all out, recharged it and leak tested all the connections. If I lose gas now it must be the compressor.
Replaced the heater control valve. Looked like the vacuum line to it had withered away many years ago and so replaced that too. So no vacuum leak while the AC is on now. Those parts I had never even noticed in the 20 years I've had it until it started leaking.
Finally fixed the hard vacuum line to evap canister that I broke a while back with a piece of rubber hose.
First time I've looked at it, but I cleaned up the EGR valve a little. There was a bit of crud that had built up that was partially blocking the smaller hole and the valve.
Cleaned up the main ground from the battery to the front of the engine block. What a PIA getting it back in that was. The one at the rear of the engine looks to be just as much of a PIA if not more. That is about the last one I need to do but I'll save that for another day.
Truck is running and idling so smoothly now. Even seems to shift smoother in the 20 mins I just drove it. I think my bodge job on the hard vacuum line was leaking for the last couple years.
PS.
Also finally used the cheap fuel pressure testing kit I got from harbor freight. 54 PSI. Not great but acceptable. Truck was feeling too sluggish, but battery connections were looser than I wold have liked, I've fixed a likely vacuum leak, and cleaned up the main ground off the battery, when I just drove around for 20 mins it definitely had picked up some.
Changed the oil and filter.
Replaced the high side port on the AC that was leaking, put a new orifice tube in, vac'd it all out, recharged it and leak tested all the connections. If I lose gas now it must be the compressor.
Replaced the heater control valve. Looked like the vacuum line to it had withered away many years ago and so replaced that too. So no vacuum leak while the AC is on now. Those parts I had never even noticed in the 20 years I've had it until it started leaking.
Finally fixed the hard vacuum line to evap canister that I broke a while back with a piece of rubber hose.
First time I've looked at it, but I cleaned up the EGR valve a little. There was a bit of crud that had built up that was partially blocking the smaller hole and the valve.
Cleaned up the main ground from the battery to the front of the engine block. What a PIA getting it back in that was. The one at the rear of the engine looks to be just as much of a PIA if not more. That is about the last one I need to do but I'll save that for another day.
Truck is running and idling so smoothly now. Even seems to shift smoother in the 20 mins I just drove it. I think my bodge job on the hard vacuum line was leaking for the last couple years.
PS.
Also finally used the cheap fuel pressure testing kit I got from harbor freight. 54 PSI. Not great but acceptable. Truck was feeling too sluggish, but battery connections were looser than I wold have liked, I've fixed a likely vacuum leak, and cleaned up the main ground off the battery, when I just drove around for 20 mins it definitely had picked up some.
Last edited:
TARDIS
Full Access Member
SMALL radio and speaker install today. Here's the forum link:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/the-small-stereo-install.119712/#post-1460963
Any thoughts or help are APPRECIATED!
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/the-small-stereo-install.119712/#post-1460963
Any thoughts or help are APPRECIATED!
PG01
Supporting Member
Yeah, I like the factory look but with updated Features.... looks good. Good luck
96-2D-Hoe
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I bought a cheap locking grease gun nozzle and it works great. I had tried doing grease maintenance last week but gave up as I was just wasting grease. Old synthetic grey Valvoline stuff had gone to almost paste and was difficult to clean out of the gun ready for the new tube. Trying to get grease in the zerks was just a waste of time.
Zero issues and zero waste today with the cheap locking nozzle. But I ran out of grease and found the plunger in my cheap $10 PT grease gun has broken and wasted 1/2 tube grease. Pitman arm and top ball joints still need doing.
There's been no coolant under my track for a couple days now! It's been there for so long and so this makes me so happy.
Was thinking about the slightly loose battery terminals that were absolutely solid when I tightened them up last. Must be the lead spacers and terminals that give way. Realized it's something that needs checking and tightening more often than I do currently.
Zero issues and zero waste today with the cheap locking nozzle. But I ran out of grease and found the plunger in my cheap $10 PT grease gun has broken and wasted 1/2 tube grease. Pitman arm and top ball joints still need doing.
There's been no coolant under my track for a couple days now! It's been there for so long and so this makes me so happy.
Was thinking about the slightly loose battery terminals that were absolutely solid when I tightened them up last. Must be the lead spacers and terminals that give way. Realized it's something that needs checking and tightening more often than I do currently.
96-2D-Hoe
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Sorry to repeat myself, but If you have never cleaned up the front engine block ground / main ground off the battery, do it! (And all the rest of course!)
On my truck the stud that holds the battery ground cable against the block wasn't very tight at all.
I am amazed at the difference it has made. The truck is running better than it has in many, many years. It starts from cold with about 1 - 1.5 turns, down from at least 3, and it starts when I touch the key when it is warm like it used to when I got it. Cold idle is a tiny bit lumpy, warm idle barely ever falters and if it does is barely noticeable. I'm barely touching the accelerator while driving and pretty sure I will be getting slightly better gas mileage.
I went to a distant Home Deport last night for some washers that weren't in stock at my local, got there 10 mins too late as they now close at 8PM. But I was enjoying driving the truck so much I carried on driving around, and then cruised the long way home. Dogs were with me and they like to drive around too.
It's a PIA in the ass to remove and replace if you have big hands and fat fingers like I do, but you could also loosen it and get a file in there to clean it all up a bit if you don't want to remove it. Which is how I think I might try the rear ground off the engine block to the frame etc. as there is such limited space.
Do it!
On my truck the stud that holds the battery ground cable against the block wasn't very tight at all.
I am amazed at the difference it has made. The truck is running better than it has in many, many years. It starts from cold with about 1 - 1.5 turns, down from at least 3, and it starts when I touch the key when it is warm like it used to when I got it. Cold idle is a tiny bit lumpy, warm idle barely ever falters and if it does is barely noticeable. I'm barely touching the accelerator while driving and pretty sure I will be getting slightly better gas mileage.
I went to a distant Home Deport last night for some washers that weren't in stock at my local, got there 10 mins too late as they now close at 8PM. But I was enjoying driving the truck so much I carried on driving around, and then cruised the long way home. Dogs were with me and they like to drive around too.
It's a PIA in the ass to remove and replace if you have big hands and fat fingers like I do, but you could also loosen it and get a file in there to clean it all up a bit if you don't want to remove it. Which is how I think I might try the rear ground off the engine block to the frame etc. as there is such limited space.
Do it!
east302
Full Access Member
This is the one by the crank sensor and balancer?
