What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Grady_Wilson

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For my RV, it was ~90°F in dry weather in South Dakota. I was able to do ~50 MPH for ~60 miles. This was a Class C with a 350/TH350 and 4.11 gearing.

For my BMW, it was two weeks of commuting during a humid Georgia summer. So, ~600 miles at ~75°F in the morning and ~90°F in the afternoon.

Not to be combative, but is seems as if you've got a Nirvana Fallacy going. No one is saying these emergency hacks are equivalent to a properly functioning cooling system, but you seem to be rejecting imperfect temporary measures because they don't meet a high standard. What's the alternative to these imperfect measures? Being stuck somewhere.
I've just never had them work for me.
But that was always in very hot, dry conditions.
Only thing I have had work is on a 60's car, bypassing a leaking heater core back into the block.
But with the coolant that was lost so the system was low, it ran a little hot at freeway speeds.
 
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Charlie207

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So..... would this fit on a GMT900 Yukon?
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j91z28d1

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From what I've read, higher humidity increases cooling ability of your car's cooling system, it doesn't hurt it.
So, warm, dry air is much harder on your car's cooling system.


yeah, I'm no engineer but I'm told by ac guys that in humid weather the heat transfer from the condense is less efficient than in drier. so I've always gone with it but I don't know.


I've never had much of a problem with cooling systems unless they are really low on water.
 

Grady_Wilson

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AC is completely different than cooling an engine.
And yes, high humidity is harder on the AC system since AC systems are heat pumps, in reverse.
 

j91z28d1

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AC is completely different than cooling an engine.
And yes, high humidity is harder on the AC system since AC systems are heat pumps, in reverse.


I don't know. seems to me the condense is just radiator with hot stuff in it transfering it's heat to air as it flows thru it. same same?

even both made of aluminum.

anyways. yeah not had a problem with things cooling with a cap left loose. I'm now towing are racing it, just getting back home, if a cooling system can handling the extreme conditions, it should be fine to get you home just diving along without much load. the pressurized system is really just to raise boiling point, but if you never make it to the boiling point, it's not a huge benefit. lot of our system at work run no over flow tanks and 7 psi caps. they run about 3in low on coolent since they can't suck water back in when they cool. big radiators and belt driven fans. never an issue even in tx heat. most things have a good amount of head room engineered in.
 

Grady_Wilson

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I've never had to limp home with a more modern car.
I change hoses and whatnot before I have an issue so I don't run into those situations.
But I have seen where people try and tape hoses and they never get very far.
When I was younger and didn't have the money to do preventative maintenance, I have had to limp home with 60's or 70's cars. And for sure those cooling systems are nowhere near as robust as modern cooling systems.
Even a slight loss of water or pressure would lead to overheating in most cases.
My antique cars have a larger margin where water can be lost and not affect cooling as much as 60's and 70's cars.
My 1929 takes 9 gallons to fill the radiator and engine.

As for AC systems and humidity, here is a little bit on that front -

Humidity is also an important factor in air conditioning performance. When humidity is very high, the AC system expends most of its effort removing the moisture out from the air. This decreases overall performance, as well.


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