What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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jared999

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Replaced the Engine Air Filter, Cabin Air filter and Throttle body position sensor. The plastic tab on the sensor that holds the electronic plug was worn down and the plug wouldn't snap into place.
Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and cleaned out the air intake box.


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Best way to get those metal clips onto the Throttle Body position sensor is to use large channel locks instead of trying to press them on with your fingers

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I couldn't believe how dirty the cabin air filter was, wow.
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j91z28d1

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Does anyone know who makes the Summit Racing branded ignition coils?


Changed plugs and wires in Deathscalade this morning. My 17 yr old was helping and a coil broke on him as he was taking a wire off. Long story short, for now I’ve replaced that coil with a Standard Ignition coil from the O’Reilly. Long term, I’m going to replace all of them so that they all match. Looking on the Summit Racing interwebz and the Summit Racing kit is $100 or more cheaper than MSD so had me curious as to made them for them.


Edit: went over to Jegs and these Mishimoto units popped up. I may give these a gander :hmm:



I don't know about those specifically but in general aftermarket coils get a bad rap on the tuning boards, since they don't give you dwell time, and if it doesn't match the factory dwell settings it can run hot and shorten the life. aftermarket injectors come with data sheets but aftermarket coils don't but should. the general thought until you go stand along computer, just use oem packs, even if it's just used junkyard ones from the same type and model you already have. or if you can get them from a known different setup, find the stock tune file for that setup and copy the dwell into your tune, if you already have hptuners or the like.

this of course is guys that over think everything, I just watched a hour long video of a guy exploring the end of injector timeing video and you'll 95% never have an issue. but just info that I see for ya.



personally in these days of being almost impossible to get quality parts any more. I'd replace the broken one with a used low mileage one. even new from a dealership doesn't guarantee they are good anymore.
 

07Burb

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I don't know about those specifically but in general aftermarket coils get a bad rap on the tuning boards, since they don't give you dwell time, and if it doesn't match the factory dwell settings it can run hot and shorten the life. aftermarket injectors come with data sheets but aftermarket coils don't but should. the general thought until you go stand along computer, just use oem packs, even if it's just used junkyard ones from the same type and model you already have. or if you can get them from a known different setup, find the stock tune file for that setup and copy the dwell into your tune, if you already have hptuners or the like.

this of course is guys that over think everything, I just watched a hour long video of a guy exploring the end of injector timeing video and you'll 95% never have an issue. but just info that I see for ya.



personally in these days of being almost impossible to get quality parts any more. I'd replace the broken one with a used low mileage one. even new from a dealership doesn't guarantee they are good anymore.
All very good and valid points :waytogo:
 

89Suburban

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maybe.. your rear audio does need jumping..

View attachment 441507

Looks like it is between the radio and amp for the rear speakers..

are you sure? on the gmt800's it was that way but on these trucks the pillar speakers have there own wiring
on the 800's the tweeter was in the door panel and the wire just extended up to the tweeter with a tiny filter soldered to the backside.
Jumping the speaker wiring on the green plug did the trick. All rear speakers now working.

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Grady_Wilson

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Rented one of these.
Moved last kid out of the house. tows like sh@t but $20 well spent
A few months ago I rented the larger version of that trailer and it towed well even though I probably was at max weight capacity for it.
But, I made sure to load it so the center of the weight would be just forward of the axle.
Looking at the tires when I got it home I wasn't confident they would last the whole 2,200 miles but they held up.
 

Doubeleive

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Well this was a fail almost a really bad fail, coded the new cylinder did it right, lubed it, went out and put the cylinder in and nada/locked up, couldn't turn the key, so I was like motherf-ker, jiggled and jiggled and jiggled and finally it turned and then I thought ok maybe it was just virgin and sticky, turned it back and ****** it stuck again, finally managed to get it to turn again pulled it out and went back and doubled checked I had it right (I did), so I figured wth I'll just use the extra new pins and insert those in the old cylinder so it's at least something new, and guess what? Yep stuck again.....so old cylinder and pins back in, works fine. New key works so hopefully I can return this thing and get my $80 back, maybe the receiver part is worn as well and it just needs a little file work but f- it im good
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Doubeleive

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if you pop the end off those with a small flat head you can replace just the rubber. ebay has it, it works well. I get 25in so it covers all my cars and a 6 pack is like 3.99$


I started doing it after I was an hour front home walked in a parts store and it was 50$ for two 25in wipers. like nope, drove home with bad wipers haha.
have a link to those rubber refills? they fit trico? I assume there all the same size anyway...
 

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