What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
25,992
Reaction score
50,786
Location
Oregon
I think that one you were trying with is dual-layered. I don't bother messing with the factory grommets. It's just not worth the hassle or risk of nicking a wire or causing a leak. Bring a piece of your power wire to an auto parts store or hardware store (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) and look for a grommet like this:

View attachment 399938

You want one that fits firmly on the jacket of your power wire. Here's mine where I ran it through the floorboard, near one of the right rear seat mounts:

View attachment 399939


I drilled the hole to the OD of the recess in the grommet ("PANEL HOLE DIAMETER" in the following image), cleaned the drilling burrs from around the edge of the hole then painted the metal and let it fully dry. The wire needed a little spritz of lubricant ever so often to slide through the grommet cuz it was a firm fit. Which, is what you want for proper sealing.

View attachment 399947


"OCD" you say? :D

View attachment 399940

View attachment 399941




Not directly. The seats are bolted to the cab floor, to sheet metal. A circuit needs to have the same ampacity throughout all of its conductors. Otherwise, the ampacity of the smallest (weakest) point will be the circuit's maximum. The battery is grounded to the frame. The body (sheet metal) is grounded to the frame with some rather electrically weak cables. You can ground that amp to sheet metal or to seat frames, etc. that are bolted to the same sheet metal, but that sheet metal needs a matching ground to the frame. So, you'd need an 8 gauge ground from the body's sheet metal to the frame or engine block. I have a 4 gauge ground from the body to the engine block, which is grounded to the frame with 1/0. It's actually the original factory main ground that went from the battery to the engine block, just relocated to the sheet metal:

View attachment 399942




It's a good ground, but still to the body. The body-to-battery (or frame or engine) needs to be at least 8 gauge.


Honestly, it's all probably okay. But, there's still room for doubt. For the minimal cost of ensuring your grounds are sufficient, you can ensure the amp won't be starved of power, minimizing its heat and how hard it'll have to work which maximizes its life.
You really should upgrade to low-profile cable ties. They’re so much cleaner looking. ;) I can’t get an Amazon link for some reason ( what happened to their link button?) but here’s a screenshot and a pic of some I used. I really like how they lay flat and look more like a small strap.
 

Attachments

  • 3DEC21E5-EB89-4AF6-9F7C-71DF7B90343A.png
    3DEC21E5-EB89-4AF6-9F7C-71DF7B90343A.png
    589.3 KB · Views: 7
  • DC8E8C86-0AAC-4A2E-88D6-846643EE176B.jpeg
    DC8E8C86-0AAC-4A2E-88D6-846643EE176B.jpeg
    383.1 KB · Views: 7

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
25,992
Reaction score
50,786
Location
Oregon
Nope. Need to pick one up. ordered. Be here tomorrow. Yeah, first thing I thought of was an exhaust leak. Shouldn’t be, used ARP bolts with the headers, but hey, that would be awesome if that’s what it is.
One of those bolts could have loosened up or an exhaust gasket could have failed.
 

Fless

Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Apr 2, 2017
Posts
11,047
Reaction score
22,126
Location
Elev 5,280

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,901
Location
Li'l Weezyana
You really should upgrade to low-profile cable ties. They’re so much cleaner looking. ;) I can’t get an Amazon link for some reason ( what happened to their link button?) but here’s a screenshot and a pic of some I used. I really like how they lay flat and look more like a small strap.

I like those! I just went with whatever work bought me a 1,000 count bag of. :yaoface2:

It'll be covered once I cut out that carpeted trim panel so the tie's aesthetics won't matter. But I'll keep these in mind for visible zip ties.
 

Alex_M

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2021
Posts
365
Reaction score
666
My fuel pressure regulator has the vacuum port on the top (flex fuel) rather than the side, no where can I find the right vacuum line elbow that is 90 degrees, only the 45 degree slanted one. I tried a generic 90deg rubber elbow but it cracked after a few months, anyone have any ideas or the same issue?

the most common 45degree connector below:
View attachment 399616
Cut the hard line near the intake manifold, leave about 1" of hard line. Get a foot of vacuum hose that will snugly fit over the remaining hard line and make yourself a loop to the regulator.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
25,992
Reaction score
50,786
Location
Oregon
Found the share icon on Amazon…why they gotta keep changing shit? I see it’s the same as @Fless linked.

SecuriTie CTCH8-60100UVB Low-Profile Cable Ties, 8 Inch., 60 Lbs. Tensile Strength, Wire & Cord Management / Industrial / Household Use, Nylon Zip Tie, 100 Pk, UV Black https://a.co/d/a7p9XMn
 

Forum statistics

Threads
130,486
Posts
1,833,546
Members
94,147
Latest member
Daddy4Papa2

Latest posts

Top