Want more midbass?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

ccole

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2021
Posts
50
Reaction score
59
I run a rather ridiculous sub stage so I needed more mid-bass to keep up with(or try to) the subs. I'm running HAT L8SE's in the doors similar to the OP's Dynaudio's. I run 2 different sub stages during the year due to traveling for my kids sports. I run a sealed 13W7 which played up to 80hz well and was far easier to tune and drive when running 2-way with 6.5". However with my dual 15's ported tuned at 29/30hz would roll off 10-15 numbers below 80Hz. I initially added a 3.5" driver so I could play the 6.5 lower 70-75Hz without it also being required to run up to the tweeter x-over point. While it sounded okay I didn't get the impact I was hoping to achieve and doubling up on the wattage pushed the driver to hard. The 8" drivers however sound amazing and integrate far better with the 15's and perfectly mate with the sealed 13.5" sub.

From my experience any deadening/dampening applied to our vehicles helps in multiple areas.

Hey OP where did you install your mids and tweeters? What wattage are you running to your 3-way?
 

salisburyv

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2021
Posts
143
Reaction score
165
AutoSound Plainville Ma. see John. i used to work there many moons ago.
 
OP
OP
S

steve671

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2021
Posts
30
Reaction score
24
Location
CA Bay Area
I run a rather ridiculous sub stage so I needed more mid-bass to keep up with(or try to) the subs. I'm running HAT L8SE's in the doors similar to the OP's Dynaudio's. I run 2 different sub stages during the year due to traveling for my kids sports. I run a sealed 13W7 which played up to 80hz well and was far easier to tune and drive when running 2-way with 6.5". However with my dual 15's ported tuned at 29/30hz would roll off 10-15 numbers below 80Hz. I initially added a 3.5" driver so I could play the 6.5 lower 70-75Hz without it also being required to run up to the tweeter x-over point. While it sounded okay I didn't get the impact I was hoping to achieve and doubling up on the wattage pushed the driver to hard. The 8" drivers however sound amazing and integrate far better with the 15's and perfectly mate with the sealed 13.5" sub.

From my experience any deadening/dampening applied to our vehicles helps in multiple areas.

Hey OP where did you install your mids and tweeters? What wattage are you running to your 3-way?

I started with the Dynaudio 8" in the doors, 3" dome and 1" Dynaudio tweeter at the top of the dash. But because the 3" did not go down low enough for me, I changed the 3" to a focal 4" mid and 1" tweeters with the Focal 3-way passive crossover. I had to cut out the dash and heat/bent the AC vents under the dash panel to get the 4" to fit. I ran this 3-way with a JL audio 300/2 and had a single 10" JL sub ran off a 500/1. This along with about 100lbs of sound damping material made this truck one of the best sounding/ staging vehicles I have put together. Here is a photo with the original dash speakers before I changed them to the focals.
 

Attachments

  • 4102011 020.jpg
    4102011 020.jpg
    303.1 KB · Views: 20

Joseph Garcia

Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Posts
6,500
Reaction score
8,500
Focal speakers rock. I have not used their lowest price point speaker model, but their low-mid priced speakers ($500+ per pair) are outstanding. 2 cars in my family have had Focal speakers for over 10 years with no issues. I even changed out 1 set (front and rear component pairs) into a new car, when I traded in the old one. Incredible range of price points ranging from $150 per pair to $24,000 per pair. I saw a $7000 pair at my audio store, but was afraid to even touch it.

I like the JL Audio amps, and I have the HD900/5 in my car, and a 6 channel class AB amp in another family car. When I bought my truck, funds were not available to go with the Focal / JL Audio components. Maybe, someday.
 

ccole

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2021
Posts
50
Reaction score
59
I started with the Dynaudio 8" in the doors, 3" dome and 1" Dynaudio tweeter at the top of the dash. But because the 3" did not go down low enough for me, I changed the 3" to a focal 4" mid and 1" tweeters with the Focal 3-way passive crossover. I had to cut out the dash and heat/bent the AC vents under the dash panel to get the 4" to fit. I ran this 3-way with a JL audio 300/2 and had a single 10" JL sub ran off a 500/1. This along with about 100lbs of sound damping material made this truck one of the best sounding/ staging vehicles I have put together. Here is a photo with the original dash speakers before I changed them to the focals.

Great idea. I haven’t thought to place the mids and tweeter on the dash. Currently my setup is stacked in the door panels. The imaging is good but I’ve been thinking about relocating the L3SE’s in the sails with tweeters in the factory Bose location. The doors I cut up are from an Escalade so I have the old ones in storage. The sails could be difficult to execute well. Especially since I use fiberglass one every 10 years. Might have to go the dash route now.
I also used about 100lbs of deadening materials along with 40’ of aluminum L-bar and gallon of panel bond.
I have a tendency to go heavy on the sub stage.
I do love the mid-bass response of the 8” in the doors vs the 6.5” I started with. Have you thought about sealing up the large opening on the door behind the panel? I used plexi(because I had it) then sealed up with deadening. It seemed to isolate the rear wave more and helped provide more punch. I am running 300 watts to each 8” so I could feel airflow around the bottom of the door prior. Now there’s far less and mostly around the glass. Thanks for the info.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
S

steve671

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2021
Posts
30
Reaction score
24
Location
CA Bay Area
Great idea. I haven’t thought to place the mids and tweeter on the dash. Currently my setup is stacked in the door panels. The imaging is good but I’ve been thinking about relocating the L3SE’s in the sails with tweeters in the factory Bose location. The doors I cut up are from an Escalade so I have the old ones in storage. The sails could be difficult to execute well. Especially since I use fiberglass one every 10 years. Might have to go the dash route now.
I also used about 100lbs of deadening materials along with 40’ of aluminum L-bar and gallon of panel bond.
I have a tendency to go heavy on the sub stage.
I do love the mid-bass response of the 8” in the doors vs the 6.5” I started with. Have you thought about sealing up the large opening on the door behind the panel? I used plexi(because I had it) then sealed up with deadening. It seemed to isolate the rear wave more and helped provide more punch. I am running 300 watts to each 8” so I could feel airflow around the bottom of the door prior. Now there’s far less and mostly around the glass. Thanks for the info.
I hadn’t thought about sealing up that hole but can certainly see how that would benefit; maybe I’ll do that on my next one which I’ll be starting soon. Speaking of 8” mid bass, look what I just won yesterday
BF108AEA-0294-4EB9-8861-E0E047DE7A73.png
 

ccole

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2021
Posts
50
Reaction score
59
I hadn’t thought about sealing up that hole but can certainly see how that would benefit; maybe I’ll do that on my next one which I’ll be starting soon. Speaking of 8” mid bass, look what I just won yesterday
View attachment 370645

That's an absolute steal! If I recall correctly those retail for $1000. Great midbass drivers as well! You been thinking about going active? You could run 200 watts just to those drivers with the right filtering. In the car audio world the DSP has been the biggest game changer in 30 years. There's a bit of a learning curve but I wouldn't build another stereo without one.
 

Denaliz

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Posts
333
Reaction score
368
Location
Frisco,TX
Kick Panels for the MB win- imo. Ive been running 8” Illusion Audio C8’s for a couple of years and couldn’t be happier. Making sure your subwoofer to midbass phase and transition is correct really helps.

Also have a 10” Raven clean subwoofer in a custom console firing up into the dash.
F538DCF7-DE71-44B5-B76B-E8B6A563725D.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 0B7EF478-6681-4331-8C11-AB9967F42714.jpeg
    0B7EF478-6681-4331-8C11-AB9967F42714.jpeg
    350.6 KB · Views: 17
  • A74CA1B5-7ED6-4E79-B56F-71127031FABA.jpeg
    A74CA1B5-7ED6-4E79-B56F-71127031FABA.jpeg
    428.8 KB · Views: 17

salisburyv

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2021
Posts
143
Reaction score
165
lol.... nice mic drop there.
obv... beautiful setup. it flows well. pretty nice mounting the director in the console lid... personally i would've put it in the console tray, and omit the cupholders there. If i had the money I'd send my yukon over to Peter @Pssound. i'm almost done sound deadening up front, def gonna need it with the JL in the console, and i love that its placed all the way up front. Tuning will be easier i think with that config. i am definitely using that idea of mounting the midrange in the dash. My tweeters are perfect in the pillars, this should be fun. just takes time since its my daily. i can't leave it apart for long. Thank you for posting such beautiful work!!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,185
Posts
1,811,831
Members
92,288
Latest member
DLM_GT

Latest posts

Top