There are three dimensions to adjust for: toe, camber and caster. Well, there's thrust angle, but let's keep it basic. Toe and camber are the easiest to nail. Getting the caster set is a little more of a pain cuz it affects the camber when you. It can kinda be a balancing act. Also, if you have aftermarket control arms and/or spindles, the way the parts swing/tilt/articulate as the suspension is cycled when driving could be vastly different than with the stock parts. For instance, with the stock parts, the toe, caster and camber may only move out of their static settings a few tenths of a degree (just to throw out a number). With the aftermarket parts, the new geometry could cause the toe, caster and camber to swing more than a full degree(again, just throwing out a number) away from their static settings. This is why I asked if you felt a difference in the steering after it was lowered and aligned. A "drastic" (even as small as 1 degree or maybe less) change in caster and toe could very well make a noticeable change in the feel of the steering, especially when hitting large and shallow dips and humps on the highway.
Looking at the that printout, and as Ken pointed out, your camber is almost a full degree out with positive camber. I believe the stock settings call for a slight bit of negative camber. If so, you're almost a full degree out of spec on the camber.
Also, as Ken mentioned, positive camber would cause the outside edges to wear. I'm no expert, but that printout and your inner shoulder wear tells me that the tires are toeing out or cambering in as the suspension cycles, like there's a lot of extra movement going on.
I'd first make sure your parts are all good- no loose bolts, etc. and have another reputable shop check the alignment. There's a chance the first shop's equipment is out of calibration.
